Bar Review: Top Roe, Austin
Sushi in Austin invariably means an omakase experience where you’re sitting through dozens of small courses and leave the experience with a fat bill on the table.
With Top Roe, Top Chef winner and Austin fixture Paul Qui is on to something different. This concept is built around sushi handrolls — finger food, really — meant to be eaten quickly and washed down with an appropriate beverage pairing.
Top Roe actually has two dining concepts under one roof. The hand roll bar is literally that, bar service much like a traditional sushi bar, and an izakaya, where more complex cooked entrees emerge from the kitchen at a more leisurely pace. Two menus are available, and patrons can only order from one during their visit. The reason for this was explained to me near the end of my time at the handroll bar. The issue is the rolls: Cold fish, warm rice, and fresh nori are a delicate combination. If the handroll isn’t eaten within a couple of minutes, the nori will soften and sag, and you’ll be left with a chewy roll that you can’t easily bite through. I discovered this by accident while waiting for a drink to arrive and a handroll sat for a few minutes, after which I ended up with a mess of rice squeezing out the back of the roll. A fresh roll, however, broke apart perfectly.
So, consider this the pro tip of all pro tips: Grab that roll as soon as they set it down, and eat it in as few bites as possible, no breaks.
The bar focus at Top Roe is heavily focused on highballs, ranging from classic presentations to innovative renditions. Base spirit, carbonated component, and extras are all fair game with these recipes, which can include everything from tequila to Chartreuse. At present, seven highballs are on the menu, three of which I tasted during my visit. (Syrups and tinctures are all made in-house.)
Two of these stood out. First was the Blueberry, a mix of Kyoto gin, blueberry, green tea, Mediterranean tonic, and yuzu, which was as effervescent and fruity as you would expect from that description. The subtle green tea syrup really elevated this into a more nuanced experience with a vibrant, summery quality.
Ultimately though I think my favorite of the trio was the Blood Orange, made from Johnnie Walker Black Label, blood orange, bergamot, and Indian tonic — garnished with a house-made blood orange caramel. Here the light smokiness from the whisky melds perfectly with the tea-like bergamot, counterbalancing the tart blood orange with a gentle peatiness.
Top Roe also has a thoughtful sake program including numerous options available by the glass and in flights. I enjoyed the daiginjo flight which featured three very different sakes ranging from classically melon-focused to rich and chewy to gently mushroomy and savory — the lattermost being an uncommon sake made in, of all places, Sinaloa, Mexico.
The food was impeccable but, again, very simple and clean. I especially loved the crunchy tuna handroll with fried shallots and tempura flakes pairing perfectly with fresh-cut tuna, as well as a bright negi salad that includes apple and house-made chili crunch mixing incredibly with the marinated seaweed on the plate. The sashimi is to die for, too. Do save room for the (one) dessert on the menu: The silky matcha pot de creme offered one of the best bites I’ve had all year.
Top Roe has a cool underground vibe, but dinner isn’t fussy and, on the Tuesday I was there, can go by pretty quick. I was in and out in 90 minutes — and as with all good sushi places, I was simultaneously not stuffed to the gills but also incredibly satisfied.
120 W 5th St, Austin, TX 78701
toproe.com
The post Bar Review: Top Roe, Austin appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.