Review: Row 94 Broken Branches Bourbon

Dierks Bentley once mused that there isn’t enough bourbon in Kentucky—and in late 2024, he took matters into his own hands by launching Row 94 Whiskey. Now, nearly a year later, Bentley returns with his first limited release: Row 94 Broken Branches Kentucky Straight Bourbon, a small-batch expression that mirrors the raw emotion and beauty found in his 11th studio album, Broken Branches. Inspired by the lyrics of “Broken Branches,” this release aims to embrace the idea that “cracks don’t mean you’re broken, they just let the light shine through.”

Distilled by Green River Distilling Co. (DSP-KY-10) in Owensboro, Kentucky, Broken Branches starts with a familiar base: a mashbill of 70% corn, 21% winter rye, and 9% six-row malted barley — the same foundation as Green River’s flagship bourbon. The unaged spirit was barreled at 120 proof into #4 char barrels and matured for around 6 years in traditional clay-walled rickhouses.

The blend pulls from two lots: the youngest barrel was filled on July 23, 2019, while the oldest dates back to June 15, 2019. After standard maturation, Bentley’s team employed a finishing technique dubbed “branch aging” — a nod to both the whiskey’s namesake and the themes of the song. Seasoned, fire-toasted oak staves were inserted directly into the barrels for 7 to 9 days.

Once the ideal flavor profile was achieved, the barrels were blended at 124.1 proof and ultimately bottled at 100 proof. The hope is that Row 94 Broken Branches is richer, older, and bolder than the debut Row 94 release.

But with added age, proof, and a unique finish comes a steeper price: $100, compared to the $40 tag of the original. That raises the inevitable question: Does Broken Branches justify the encore-worthy cost?

Row 94 Broken Branches Bourbon Review

If Bentley’s music teaches us anything, it’s that there’s beauty in the broken, meaning in the mess, and power in honesty. This bourbon may not be flawless—but maybe that’s exactly the point. With only 1,500 bottles released, Row 94 Broken Branches puts its soul on stage. Now, it’s time to pour a glass, raise it high, and see if the crowd demands more.

The nose starts off with a playful candy shop vibe — sweet cherry Jolly Ranchers and Cow Tales lead the way. But that early sweetness doesn’t overstay its welcome. A deeper molasses note arrives, pulling the aroma into more grounded territory. From there, nutmeg rounds things out with a savory touch that balances the front-loaded sugar.

On the palate, flavors build into something cohesive: chocolate-covered cherries come through via milk chocolate, cherry, and a touch of vanilla. Just as it feels like the sweetness might take over, notes of dry tobacco and toasted hazelnut push through, adding depth and balance. The texture offers moderate viscosity, giving the whiskey a satisfying weight. The finish turns fully dry, as tobacco and chai-like spice linger with persistence, leaving a firm impression long after the sip.

Row 94 Broken Branches is a well-executed toasted-finish bourbon. It offers more character and refinement than many of its peers in the same category, and the balance between sweet and spice is handled with care. It’s clearly a thoughtfully constructed pour.

The sticking point, however, is the price. At $100, this essentially 6-year-old, 100-proof bourbon is walking into a very crowded space—one that’s already filled with high-quality options offering more age, higher proof, or both, often at a better value. While the flavor profile is quite good and the finishing technique adds a distinct layer, it’s hard to shake the feeling that the price overshoots the specs.

If this were priced in the $65 to 70 range, it would be an easy recommendation and a bottle worth keeping in regular rotation. As it stands, it’s a solid limited release with a thoughtful finish and commendable depth, but one that feels better suited for a one-time experience than a permanent spot on the shelf.

100 proof.

B+ / $100

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