Review: Sakes of Origami Sake

Yes, they make sake everywhere — but did you know they make it in Arkansas? Origami Sake has the look of an Asian brand, but it’s made in Hot Springs, from locally grown rice.

Origami also has a non-alcoholic sake on its roster, which is what first attracted me to the brand.

Origami makes four sakes now, but sent us three. Thoughts on the trio follow.

Origami A Thousand Cranes Sake – A clear sake, though there’s no real indication of the specific style offered. The pale, yellowish beverage is a few steps above basic Japanese bottles and draft sake, offering a pleasant melon attack and some citrus juice, all punctuated by a bit of astringency. There’s also a surprising and light smoky quality here, not unpleasant but unusual, which at least serves as an umami-like distraction from the slightly industrial quality of the sake itself. Good enough for takeout. B

Origami White Lotus Unfiltered Sake – A very cloudy nigori-style sake, this is quite sweet, heavy with notes of sesame cake, lychee, and honeydew, but sprinkled with a grind of sea salt. It’s all impregnated with an oxidized wine character that evokes thoughts of Fino sherry and, ultimately, rice porridge. It’s too sweet to pair with food — I even had trouble balancing it with a chicken teriyaki — but with an Asian-inspired dessert it may do better. B-

Origami Zero Non-Alcoholic Sake – Quite yellow in color, and really odd all-around — frankly nothing like I’ve ever tasted (especially sake). Notes of vanilla custard, lemon, coconut, and almond butter give this an oddball dessert character that is almost impossible to describe — sweet, fruity, and intensely gummy. Guava candy is perhaps the best descriptor I have for it, and even that doesn’t quite get all the way there. The finish sticks with you forever, to the point where I simply couldn’t get rid of it. I thought this was fairly awful at the start, it slowly grew on me, then I hated it again when I realized I couldn’t get rid of it. At least it’s not D

each $25

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