Review: Broken Halo Texas Bourbon, County Road Bourbon, and Tin Star Gin
War Trail Spirits is a Texas whiskey and gin producer based in Llano, Texas. We sampled their wares at the recent Texas Whiskey Festival and the managers were kind enough to drop off a collection of bottles for more in-depth analysis. So let’s dive in!
Broken Halo Texas Bourbon 4 Years Old Review
Produced from 100% Texas grains, this is War Trail’s flagship product, made from 80% corn and 20% rye — no barley in the mashbill. Toasty and smoky on the nose with strong overtones of burning mesquite, this whiskey blends elements of beach bonfire and stone fruit — particularly peach preserves… along with tannic peach pits, later apricot.
This yin-yang of fruit and smoke continue on the palate, making for a fairly classic Texas bourbon experience, akin to applewood smoldering for a barbecue, though apples quickly make way again for notes of peach puree, more apricot, and later a hint of mango. Peppery and layered with savory spices, the whiskey soon finds an intensely herbal quality that starts with rosemary and moves from there into notes of mint, then cherry-laced rhubarb as the boldly black pepper-laced finish builds.
Those familiar with the hallmarks of Texas whiskey will find them laid out like a buffet here in Broken Halo. While it may well be improved by some additional time in barrel, it’s got plenty of both oomph and nuance to liven up your summertime BBQ.
94 proof. Reviewed: Batch #10A. B+ / $49
County Road Blended Bourbon Double Oaked Finished Review
This is a blend of 75% two year old Texas bourbon and 25% grain neutral spirits. The whiskey is aged in new American oak barrels, then blended and finished in used bourbon barrels with toasted French oak heads. That sounds like a lot of work for a blended whiskey like this, but the results are actually quite harmless. The nose is mild, recalling simple notes of toasted cereal, lightly sweetened, alongside almond skins, coconut husks, and a touch of petrol.
The palate is equally simple, heavy on grain and slightly industrial, albeit with a peppery bent that livens things up just a bit. Almonds are well evidenced again, as is ample, fresh greenery and a healthy slug of corn oil. That industrial quality does rear its head, particularly as the finish builds, becoming more than a little overpowering on the back end. The resulting oily and lightly astringent quality should be familiar to anyone who’s sampled Seagram’s 7 or similar on its own, though when liberally dosed with the mixer of your choice as is intended, I expect you won’t much notice.
80 proof. B- / $31
Tin Star Gin Review
Made from a potato vodka base, botanicals are not disclosed. Fans of classic London dry gin will adore this spirit, which is big with piney juniper aromas from the second you crack open the bottle. Gentle notes of turned earth keep the gin from becoming overly pungent or one-note, while touches of black pepper and cardamom add more nuance. There’s the slightest hit of orange peel, but otherwise it’s not a fruity gin at all.
The palate meets expectations, though the juniper fades fast and allows the earthier elements to come into focus. There’s a sweetness here that isn’t telegraphed by the nose, a gentle brown sugar character that fades into toasted sesame, offering a more austere twist on the sweet stuff. A light note of raspberry clings to the finish, providing a surprising dash of fruit that comes out of nowhere, followed by a dash of saline.
Sold only at the distillery in Llano.
80 proof. A- / $27
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