Drinks Atlas: Cognac, France

“While it’s easy to just associate Cognac with big brands, glossy marketing, and celebrity ties, there’s so much more to the story,” says ms. franky marshall, a New York City–based Cognac educator and self-described modern bartender. Despite the global recognition of the spirit that bears its name, the Cognac region in France was originally known for its role in the salt trade. Its location along the Charente River gave easy access to coastal ships. In the 16th century the Dutch, who traded in wines from Cognac, began to distill them into brandy and later created the first distilleries in the region. But it wasn’t until 1909 that the geographic production zone was delimited. And in 1936 Cognac was designated with official appellation of origin status.

Just as the terroir of a landscape impacts the characteristics of wine, so too does that impact translate through distillation into Cognac. “There are six distinct crus—growing regions—which have their own unique soils that leave an imprint on the flavor profile of Cognac,” explains marshall. “The eaux-de-vie coming from the chalk, clay, and limestone soils of the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne generally express themselves best after longer aging. Contrast that with the sandy soils of the Bois à Terroirs (aka Bois Ordinaires), which include the islands of Île de Ré and Île d’Oléron. The location on the Atlantic Ocean naturally influences the character of these faster aging eaux-de-vie in interesting ways.

While unique and quality expressions can be found across the region, the Cognacs produced from grapes in the Grande and Petite Champagne areas are still considered to be the most desirable. In fact, the largest Cognac houses that produce the category’s most well-known brands only use grapes from four regions—Grand, Petite, Borderies, and Fins Bois. But, as marshall notes, the category is always evolving. “We’re now starting to see more single cask, single cru, vintage, brut de fût (cask strength), and additive-free expressions,” she says. “And since, traditionally, most Cognacs are blends, it’s interesting to see unblended bottlings available now as well. I always encourage people to experiment, taste, and keep an open mind, because there really is a Cognac for every palate.”

5 to Try

Cognac Grosperrin

A relative newcomer by Cognac standards, the Grosperrin house was founded by Jean Grosperrin in 1999, and highlights old and unique eaux-de-vie from smaller producers. “Grosperrin sources and ages eaux-de-vie from the entire Cognac region, bottling a wide range including vintages and single-cru expressions,” marshall says. “Their bottlings focus on terroir, are fully traceable, and are additive-free.” cognac-grosperrin.com

Cognac Navarre

Fourth-generation distiller Jacky Navarre runs his historic estate in the Grande Champagne region with an approach of minimal intervention as he blends stocks that have aged for up to 50 years. “Admired for his artisanal approach, Navarre is responsible for all aspects of his production,” says marshall. “He uses no additives, not even water. All his Cognacs evaporate naturally during their time in the cellar.” chamberswines.com

Camus

Based in the Borderies region, Camus was founded in 1863 and benefits from broad name recognition in the category, and wide availability of their spirits. “It’s the largest independent family-owned house,” marshall says. “Their Île de Ré Fine Island line was the first I’d ever tried from that region.” camus.fr

Cognac Fanny Fougerat

“Although there are women involved in all aspects of the Cognac industry, you don’t see many who have chosen to start their own eponymous brand,” says marshall of the distiller, who does not blend any of her bottlings. “Coming from the Borderies and Fins Bois, Fanny Fougerat distills all her distinctive Cognacs on her family estate.” cognac-fannyfougerat.fr

Bourgoin Cognac

Located in the Fins Bois, this smaller, family-owned house is led by fourth-generation winemaker/distiller Frédéric Bourgoin. “They have a range of bottlings, some of which are finished in micro-barriques, or reduced with rain water, and all are additive-free,” notes marshall. Their Cognacs are estate-bottled and unfiltered, too. bourgoincognac.com

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