Review: Champagne De Saint-Gall NV Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru and 2004 Orpale Zero Dosage
Founded in 1966, Champagne de Saint Gall describes itself as a “cooperative of cooperatives” among a set of Grand Cru and Premier Cru champagne growers. Taken together, the brand represents a significant number of vineyards across the Champagne region and employs more than 2000 people, though it is small compared to the leading champagne producers like Moët & Chandon.
Chardonnay is the centerpiece of Champagne de Saint Gall’s winemaking, and today we try two very different examples made from the grape. The first is an affordable NV blanc de blanc made with very little dosage and the second is a well-aged vintage champagne with zero dosage. Let’s give them a try.
NV Champagne De Saint-Gall Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Extra Brut Review
Made with 100% Chardonnay, this Champagne is delicious and well-balanced. Although it is extra brut, bright fruit notes hide the low sugar level and the Champagne offers bold notes on the nose and palate of lemon and melon, along with well-buttered brioche and light minerality. The yeasty character results from 60 months on the lees, which also explains the lovely small bubbles which give the wine a creamy mouthfeel. There’s high acidity as well and a big rounded character as the various elements integrate nicely. The price is also quite reasonable for such well-crafted champagne. A- / $50
2004 Champagne De Saint-Gall Orpale Zero Dosage Review
Vintage Champagne is expensive, and it can be very disappointing when the quality or complexity do not warrant the higher price tag. Happily, that is not the case here. This Champagne is 100% Chardonnay and includes zero dosage. And yet, the champagne is surprisingly sweet with lively fruit perfectly concealing the absence of sugar. Bright, bold notes of lemon cake batter, lemon pith, stone fruit, salinity, and minerality appear on both the nose and palate. There’s crisp, vibrant acidity here as well as ample mousse and very fine bubbles, which lend the wine a silky mouthfeel. The finish is very long as lemon notes slowly fade. A bit more complexity would have been welcome, but this is a lovely example of the richness that extended aging can bring to well-made, zero dosage champagne. A- / $250
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