Book Review: Mother of Bourbon

In a world where new whiskey brands seem to appear on liquor store shelves daily, August 2023 introduced another contender: Mary Dowling Whiskey Company. The modern incarnation of Mary Dowling Whiskey is the brainchild of Kaveh Zamanian, best known for his association with Louisville’s Rabbit Hole Distillery. While the historical figure of Mary Dowling was dubbed the “Mother of Bourbon,” her name remains largely unknown to many whiskey enthusiasts. Zamanian has further spotlighted her legacy by recently reviving the Waterfill and Frazier brand, a distillery once owned by the Dowlings that was famously relocated to Juarez, Mexico during Prohibition. The American whiskey industry’s history has largely centered on wealthy white men, with women only recently stepping into the spotlight. In an effort to honor Mary Dowling’s significant yet overlooked role, Zamanian and Eric Goodman co-authored Mother of Bourbon: The Greatest American Whiskey Story Never Told, released in early 2025. Zamanian hopes this book will not only elevate Dowling’s place in whiskey history but also boost sales of her namesake whiskey, shedding light on her crucial, though often forgotten, contribution.

At first, I assumed Mother of Bourbon would be a straightforward biography of Mary Dowling. However, the prologue quickly clarified that the book is not a conventional biography but rather a work of historical fiction. Having read over 500 books on the history of American beverage alcohol, I’ve encountered only a handful of historical fiction titles that I cared to read. Typically, I usually steer clear of such works, preferring to immerse myself in factual, historically accurate accounts. When recounting history, I want to be certain that the details I recall are grounded in reality, not literary invention. So, when I eagerly picked up the book, I was initially deflated to discover it was a novel. The prologue explains that Dowling left behind minimal written records, making it difficult to capture her life through her own words. Instead, the authors drew on family anecdotes, county records, and newspaper articles to weave together her story. To avoid a dry, monotonous history, Goodman and Zamanian blended these historically accurate details and family stories into a 291-page novel. Despite my usual disinterest in historical fiction, I found it surprisingly easy to discern when the novel presented verifiable facts versus literary embellishments. As someone passionate about whiskey history, I ended up enjoying the book more than I had expected once I accepted its fictionalized format.

So, what does Mother of Bourbon actually cover? In a field historically dominated by men, how did a woman born in 1858 to Irish-Catholic immigrants earn the title “Mother of Bourbon?” Born Mary Murphy, she grew up in a hardworking, financially struggling family. At a young age, she married John Dowling, a much older man who owned a whiskey distillery in Tyrone, Kentucky. This marriage provided Mary with a more comfortable life. Although the Dowlings were wealthy, Mary faced prejudice because of her Irish-Catholic background, particularly in Lawrenceburg, in an America where xenophobic mobs were hostile toward immigrants and Catholics. After John Dowling’s death in 1903, Mary became the sole proprietor of the distillery. As a widowed Irish-Catholic woman in an era when women had limited rights and little respect in business, she faced immense challenges. Existing contracts were canceled, and banks were unwilling to extend credit to her. Despite this, Mary managed to navigate the discrimination and keep the distillery operational.

When Prohibition struck, the distillery was forced to halt production. However, Mary kept several barrels of whiskey for personal consumption in the cellar of Dowling Hall, as was allowed by law. As Prohibition dragged on, she and her family were accused of bootlegging. Mary believed these charges were motivated by racial and religious animosity, particularly from the Ku Klux Klan. Though the legal case against her was flawed, her sons faced prison time in Atlanta, and Mary herself narrowly avoided conviction. With the legal pressure mounting, she moved the Waterfill and Frazier distillery to Juarez, Mexico, near El Paso, Texas, where Joseph Beam served as distiller. There, she continued to legally produce bourbon for the Mexican market, while also supplying American bootleggers—reportedly including Al Capone. It’s worth noting that bourbon was not officially defined as a distinctive product of the United States until 1964, so there were no legal restrictions on producing bourbon abroad at the time. During this period, bourbon was also being made in Canada. While in Mexico, Mary worked closely with Antonio Bermudez, who gave her the title “Mother of Bourbon.”

Mary Dowling’s story is one that deserves recognition. In an era when women were rarely seen as leaders outside the home, she took control of a distillery and managed its success against incredible odds. She fully understood the barriers she faced in a man’s world but fought relentlessly to overcome them. Whether you’re a whiskey enthusiast or simply interested in a unique historical tale, Mother of Bourbon is a compelling read that brings a remarkable woman’s legacy to life.

B+ / $28 [BUY IT NOW FROM AMAZON]

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