Review: Fosforo Mezcal – Tobala, Tobala Penca, and Ensamble
Fosforo Mezcal is a one of a growing list of mezcal brands launched by famous people. But its founder isn’t exactly your typical celebrity spirits backer. The mezcal was launched in 2022 by Jim Cramer, the animated former hedge fund manager famous for emphatic “Booyahs” and bizarre sound effects on his long-running financial advice show, Mad Money.
Jim and his wife, Lisa Detwiler, caught the mezcal bug while vacationing at their home in Mexico. They enlisted fourth generation mezcalero Aaron Alva Sanchez to produce this unique series of mezcals which eschew classic Espadin agave in favor of more exotic varietals, primarily Tobala. The portfolio currently stands at three expressions, and we’ve got thoughts on all of them.
Fosforo Mezcal Tobala Review
This unaged, joven mezcal is made from 100% Tobala grown in Puebla. It is cooked in underground pits (called tahona) for 5 to 8 days, fermented for up to two weeks, and double distilled. The aroma is fresh and earthy with early notes of wet clay and graphite that give way to sweet, roasted agave, grilled tropical fruits, and a soft, silky lacing of wet and slightly sour campfire smoke. The palate is more savory than sweet, but it’s still rich and round with notes of agave syrup, bruleed sugar, and dried herbs. The smoke is the star of the show though, flinty and mineral at first before turning sweeter and creamier on the midpalate. You can almost taste the charred wood and embers from the tahona. The smoke eventually turns to tart and tropical notes, simmering with a gentle warmth into a medium-long finish of burnt sugar, agave pulp, and salted melon. 90 proof. A- / $100 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Fosforo Mezcal Tobala Penca Review
The same 100% Tobala mezcal as above but distinguished by a short aging period in glass vessels (1 to 3 months) with the leaf of the agave plant, called a penca. Pale gold in color due to the addition of the agave bits, the aroma is surprisingly transformed from the classic Tobala. It’s brighter and noticeably creamier with a distinct butterscotch note. Undertones of grated baking spice and agave syrup complement the caramelized sweetness. The smoke meanwhile is much more subdued initially but builds steadily as it opens with that same damp, earthy funk. The palate is round and vegetal with big notes of fresh agave, lemon balm, and turbinado sugar that transition to caramelized pineapple on the midpalate. The finish is long and round with subtle woodsmoke, grilled agave, and saltwater taffy. Unique and really impressive. 86 proof. A / $130 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Fosforo Mezcal Ensemble Review
An unspecified blend of Tobala and Espadilla, a cultivar cousin of Espadin agave that is also native to Puebla. Again, cooked in tahona for 5 to 8 days, fermented for up to two weeks, and double distilled. Compared to the other two, this is a much more straightforward mezcal with an aroma of classic cooked agave, fresh tropical fruit, and a touch of brine. The smoke notes are cleaner but still well-charred. The palate is the brightest of the three expressions and the cleanest with early notes of agave syrup, powdered sugar, and pineapple candies. A bit of white pepper on the midpalate adds some warmth and energy before a round, gentle finish of dried herbs, agave sugar, and charcoal. Clearly the entry-level expression and priced as such, but it still offers plenty to admire for straight sipping or cocktailing. 86 proof. B+ / $50
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