Review: 2023 Domaines Ott Etoile Rose Vin de France
Provence rose is as iconic as the style gets, and it usually shows up in pretty pedestrian bottlings. If you want to see this wine at its most elevated, turn to Domaines Ott, which was established in 1912 with the goal of achieving “the purest expression of Provence’s world famous wines.”
Etoile Rose, packaged in an avant garde, curvy bottle, certainly looks nothing like your $12 bottle of sweetish supermarket plonk. Nor does it taste the part.
While punctuated by notes of white flowers and fresh peaches, the wine carries a surprisingly tannic character, with notes of grapefruit and lemon pith offering a bitterness that is rather bracing at times. A slight anise note is well evident — Domaines Ott rightfully identifies it more clearly as tarragon, which provides a gently herbaceous note on the finish. Throughout, a mellow creaminess on the body works well alongside its more pungent elements.
The berry-like notes and stinky perfume of your typical Provence rose are both lacking here, and frankly that’s all fine with me. At $175 it is, by far, the most expensive rose I’ve ever had, but for the true “blush” connoisseur, it may be a special occasion experience without a rival.
A- / $175
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