Review: Wines of Early Mountain, 2022 Vintage
It’s been a few years since we tasted anything from Virginia’s Early Mountain, so consider this a small update into how this winery on the Monticello Wine Trail in Madison County has evolved of late. One thing of note: All the wines we’re reviewing today are vineyard designated, drawn from fruit grown at Early Mountain’s Quaker Run Vineyard instead of the more general (and cheaper) Shenandoah Valley releases we’ve previously seen.
Let’s try three varietals — only one a repeat from our prior coverage.
2022 Early Mountain Chardonnay Quaker Run Vineyard – A classic American chardonnay presentation, though light-handed when it comes to oak — in a good way. Notes of guava, almond, and honeysuckle add plenty of intrigue to an otherwise crisp and clean experience, melding with fruit and more of a patisserie experience. It all wraps up with touches of coconut cream and a gentle banana note, recalling the tropics. Excellent stuff that can go toe to toe with anything from California. A / $85
2022 Early Mountain Tannat Quaker Run Vineyard – Did you know the word “tannin” came from the tannat grape, which is well-known for its tannic structure? This bottling defies those expectations and proves to be rather soft — surprisingly chewy with a big blueberry character dominating. It’s sweeter than expected but also rather innocuous, with notes of violets and some spice giving the somewhat thin finish some nuance. B+ / $85
2022 Early Mountain Cabernet Franc Quaker Run Vineyard – Cabernet franc is the most popular varietal in Virginia, and Early Mountain does solid work with it. Softer than a California cab franc, the wine has a gentle, rhubarb-like bitterness that plays nicely with its core of cherries and a pinch of baking spice, which adds a vague sweetness to the mix. A bit flabby on the back end and gritty with notes of turned earth, the wine could benefit from some added acidity to perk things up. As is, though, it’s wholly approachable. B / $85
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