Review: Mellwood Bottled-in-Bond and Derby Town Barrel Proof Bourbon

Pursuit Spirits has been releasing a variety of American whiskeys under their own label for several years. Now, the podcasters-turned-bottlers are taking the brand in an additional direction with the revival of two vintage labels — and accordingly, some new whiskey to go with them.

The Mellwood Legacy Collection pays homage to the site of their Louisville-based facility, located on the corner of Frankfort and Mellwood Avenues. Mellwood Distillery Co. traces its origins back to 1865 and, like many whiskey makers at the time, ceased operations in 1918 as Prohibition went into effect.

The initial Legacy Collection releases feature Mellwood Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon — Pursuit Spirits’ first bottled-in-bond whiskey — and Derby Town Barrel Proof Bourbon. Both are sold in 375ml “hip flask” bottles, which the brand says “tie old world charm with today’s modern aesthetic.” These bottles will available exclusively at the Pursuit Spirits Distillery and to their club members.

Let’s see how they taste.

Mellwood Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon Review

This is a six year old bottled-in-bond bourbon made from a mashbill of 78% corn, 12% rye, and 10% malted barley. Though the collections press release didn’t disclose the distillery of origin, by law, that must be displayed on the bottle. The whiskey was distilled at DSP-KY-20041 (Bardstown Bourbon Company) and bottled by DSP-KY-20135 (the relatively new designation for Pursuit Spirits).

The nose kicks off with classic caramel, then quickly adds in spiced pecans, butter pecan ice cream, melted candy corn, and cinnamon-rich apple pie a la mode. Oak is fairly light here, and the nose itself leans a little grain-forward in its sweetness. But that’s not to imply it’s rough around the edges; on the contrary, there’s an inviting, approachable balance with just a touch of baked fruit hidden deep within the aromas.

A first sip brings more butter pecan ice cream, as well as caramel popcorn, hard butterscotch candy, chewy preserved ginger, and dark apple butter. Flavors get darker and more heavily spiced toward the midpalate, the apple butter especially growing bolder and richer as oak influence gradually adds some nice astringency to counteract the sweet. As with the nose, the palate isn’t overly complex, but it presents its flavors in balance. On the finish, some lightly tannic, lemon-kissed sweet tea brings us home. Not a bad start, though I kept hoping one or two specific elements would punch through more.

100 proof.

B+ / $30 (375ml)

Derby Town Barrel Proof Bourbon 7 Years Old Review

This is a seven year old, barrel proof bourbon bottled at 122.8 proof. (Note this will vary some from batch to batch.) It comes from an undisclosed Kentucky source, with a mashbill of 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% malted barley.

Bold and boozy cherry syrup leads among the early aromas, along with a sweet-and-savory medley that includes walnut extract, dried black figs, and pineapple-glazed and clove-encrusted ham. A few more sniffs bring fruitcake, barrel char, and dark praline. Suddenly, a pop of shaved dark chocolate. Taken together, the experience reminds me of the aftermath of Christmas pudding that’s been set alight, the scent of burnt brandy and caramelized fruit hanging in the air — perhaps with more cocoa.

A first sip brings classic Kentucky bourbon rye spice (had I not known, I would have guessed a higher proportion of that grain in the mashbill), dark cherry syrup, cooked peaches, cinnamon sticks, and cinnamon chewing gum, flat cola, and diluted maple syrup. I wouldn’t have minded one or two of those notes sticking high above the rest, but overall, it’s a nice composition that quickly invites more sips, even at 122+ proof. The finish falls just a shade flatter compared to the palate, with pronounced cola and a dash of cherry. A few drops of water brought out more red fruit on the final act, including ripe strawberry.

122.8 proof.

B+ / $50 (375ml)

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