San Felice is a Tuscany-based winery that has received ample attention here at Drinkhacker, and recently we were fortunate to connect with San Felice’s Director, Carlo De Biasi, to discuss a variety of topics. What follows is a lightly edited excerpt from our conversation.

Drinkhacker: We are living in very interesting times, to put it mildly. It seems every topic imaginable is currently undergoing some form of evolution, for better and worse. How is San Felice preparing for, well, let’s start with the tariffs. How have these new tariffs impacted San Felice’s export strategies? Your pricing models? 

Carlo De Biasi: We are currently analyzing and reviewing our business model in the U.S. to better align with our long-term brand building strategy and to ensure a stronger presence and control over our distribution processes. This is an ongoing process that began before any discussion of potential tariffs even arose, which underscores the strategic importance of the U.S. market to San Felice.

At this time, the proposed tariffs have not yet been implemented beyond 10% but the situation is evolving almost daily. While their potential introduction is certainly a critical factor to consider, it is also true that San Felice operates in the premium wine segment. Therefore, a more significant impact is expected for mid- and low-end wines than for premium products like ours. What worries us at the moment is the combined effect of the duties associated with the trend of the euro/dollar exchange rate over the last month.

Drinkhacker: In recent years, we have experienced a global pandemic, shipping slowdowns, raw material shortages, and price increases. Can you discuss some of the ways San Felice has adapted to global supply chain disruptions while minimizing the impacts on wine drinkers?

De Biasi: The pandemic years have been difficult years, which have directly impacted the production of wine and its marketing. The costs of raw materials have increased considerably, as have those of energy. San Felice is a self-sufficient company from an energy standpoint, and this has given us a great advantage in containing costs. For raw materials we had made good stocks and the commercial thrust that we witnessed in the years immediately following allowed us to rebalance our company from an economic point of view

Drinkhacker: Continuing on with the bright and cheerful questions: San Felice largely operates within one of Italy’s most cherished wine regions. However, it feels as if we are living through climate shifts that threaten to impact the region. What are some of the key initiatives San Felice is currently undertaking around sustainability and biodiversity? Has there been any progress in terms of reducing your carbon footprint or water usage? Have you noticed an increase in the quality of the soil?

De Biasi: At San Felice, we have embraced regenerative viticulture — a concrete and forward-thinking commitment to sustainability that redefines the traditional approach to vineyard management. Rather than simply cultivating the land, we are working to actively regenerate the soil, a process that helps fight erosion, enhance biodiversity, and mitigate the effects of climate change.

Our commitment extends to major collaborative projects such as Life VitiCaSe—a pioneering initiative in Italy and across Europe aimed at encouraging farmers to adopt strategies that reduce greenhouse gas emissions and increase soil carbon sequestration. It’s a true open innovation effort, bringing together forward-looking companies like ours with leading research institutions—including CREA Agricoltura e Ambiente and CREA Politiche e Bioeconomia—as well as the Provincial Union of Farmers of Siena (Confagricoltura).

In addition, we are currently in the process of converting all our vineyards to organic farming, a transition that will be completed by 2026.

Drinkhacker: Now, on to more of the fun stuff. The Vitiarium project is a rather exciting recent development for the company. Briefly, how did it come about and how does it differ from other product lines? What about it makes it special to you, personally?

De Biasi: The identity of a wine is the expressive synthesis of its grape variety, the terroir it grows in, and the expertise of those who craft it. Guided by this philosophy, we created the Vitiarium line—another vital piece in the broader, long-term vision that San Felice has been carefully developing over the years. These wines represent the culmination of decades of research, which began in the 1980s with our commitment to reviving nearly forgotten ancient Tuscan grape varieties.

Central to this initiative is our experimental vineyard, the Vitiarium, established to preserve and celebrate local viticultural diversity. Spanning 1.6 hectares, this unique site is home to 231 different grape varieties, a testament to San Felice’s dedication to tradition, scientific innovation, and collaboration with the University of Florence. The Vitiarium line is crafted for refined, high-end dining, embodying a harmonious blend of heritage and modernity in winemaking. It includes four distinctive labels: Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG, La Pieve Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione, Pugnitello Toscana IGT, and In Avane Chardonnay Toscana IGT. Though each wine tells its own compelling story, they are united by a contemporary design and a shared spirit. Together, they invite the consumer on a cultural journey that connects deeply with our land.

Drinkhacker: While it seems as if every day there’s a new article about young people venturing off into other spirits, or even non-alcoholic drinks, the last several wine bars I have frequented have all been populated with people younger than I am, who are willing to try new concepts and learn about wines from around the world with keen interest. Globally, are you seeing a generational shift in your customer base?

De Biasi: Yes, we are indeed noticing a generational shift. While it’s true that younger consumers are exploring a wider range of beverages, we also see a growing curiosity and openness toward wine—especially wines with a story, a sense of place, and authenticity. At San Felice, our focus on heritage, sustainability, and innovation resonates strongly with this new generation of wine lovers who value both quality and meaning in what they drink.

Drinkhacker: I’d like to take a moment to talk about this year’s Pugnitello vintage, which is something I found to be incredibly satisfying and aligns with my love of deep, big, burly reds that demand one’s attention. My curiosity and enthusiasm for this particular varietal could result in a whole other interview, but I will limit it to one for now: How did San Felice discover and decide to pursue Pugnitello? I can easily see why you would pursue growing these grapes on a larger scale. But this isn’t a wine one comes across every day on the shelves.

De Biasi: Pugnitello is perhaps the most compelling and emblematic result of our Vitiarium project. Among the many varieties we studied, Pugnitello stood out for its unique character and exceptional potential, becoming both a symbol of the project and a hallmark of San Felice’s identity. We vinify it on its own in our Pugnitello Toscana IGT, but it also plays a key role in several of our Chianti Classico wines, where it contributes depth, personality, and a distinctive stylistic signature. In this way, Pugnitello becomes a kind of trait d’union — a common thread that expresses our deep connection to the territory and sets us apart with authenticity

Drinkhacker: Quite obviously, you can’t divulge any future plans here (but if you feel as if you wish to do so, by all means, feel free!). But, if possible, give us a general overview of what you envision for the next 5 to 10 years with San Felice. Given how it’s becoming more and more difficult to predict what will happen next month, I would imagine it would be a challenge to provide sharp clarity on the matter, but have a go anyway: where do you wish to see San Felice in 2030? 2040?

De Biasi: Looking ahead, our vision is to see San Felice further established as a group of estates deeply rooted in the heart of Tuscany. With three properties located in the region’s most prestigious appellations, our goal is to continue strengthening the unique identity of each estate, while developing a winemaking style that is both distinctive and authentically expressive of its respective terroir.

Sustainability, for us, goes beyond environmental responsibility. It also means fostering long-term economic and social sustainability across our entire ecosystem. We want San Felice to be not only a benchmark for quality and authenticity in Tuscan wine, but also a model for their communities of people

Drinkhacker: Finally, if you could choose one bottle representative of your time with San Felice, which wine would it be and why? What would you pair it with?

De Biasi: The wine that would represent my time with San Felice is the one we have in mind for our future projects — a wine that embodies both our journey and our vision. It’s not just a reflection of where we’ve been, but a symbol of where we’re going. I would pair it with a moment of anticipation and excitement, shared with those who believe in what’s to come.

About that Pugnitello… here’s a review.

2021 San Felice Pugnitello Toscana IGT Review

Pugnitello is an ancient grape variety native to Tuscany, and San Felice is one of the few wineries to produce a 100% Pugnitello wine from it. At first, the eponymous bottling is initially dense and almost unbearably rich, ala a Sagrantino or Tannat, but a generous amount of time in the glass allows its charms to unfold. Ripe cherries and raspberries are immediate, with spice aromas eventually coming into sharper focus. Cinnamon and allspice are also prominent throughout, while anise and a layer of dark chocolate emerge as an accentuation on the back of the palate. The finish is slightly gravelly but infused with a hint of balsamic, adding acidity to temper the significant amount of fruit. If you sit with it long enough, time seems to pass very quickly, because this will keep you occupied for quite some time. Incredible, powerful stuff. A / $65

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