Review: Zephyr Gin and Zephyr Black Gin
Zephyr is a new gin brand made in England and designed with a singular, defining, additional ingredient in both of its expressions: elderberries. With that focus established (and considering we don’t know a whole lot more about these products), let’s dive into the experience.
One item of note is that a lot of the paint on the underside of the (standard) Zephyr Gin cap rubbed off on the top of the glass decanter before we opened the bottle. It’s easy to scrape off the residue, but I would advise you to check for the same before you drink it.
Zephyr Gin Review
Extremely light on the nose and quite fruity, the aromatics here are immediately thick with elderflower/elderberry notes, promptly evoking St. Germain. Hints of tangerine and white grapes add a strong additional through-line of fruit, to the exclusion of pretty much everything else aside from the gentlest hint of fresh juniper.
No surprise whatsoever on the palate: The elderberry is powerful and pungent, while the other fruit notes take a back seat. Slightly earthy and a bit more piney, the juniper clings to the midpalate but the elderberry persists in the nostrils, making for a field-and-forest dichotomy. Clean as can be on the finish, the gin shows off some lovely white floral notes on the fade-out, while hints of pepper both black and white dance on the tip of the tongue.
Those looking for a light-as-air gin that works well in long drinks will find this more than apt.
80 proof.
A- / $38
Zephyr Black London Dry Gin Review
The only thing black about this gin is the cap. Otherwise both bottle and liquid inside are crystal clear. While designed to be more traditional in formulation (and higher in proof), it also features elderberry in the botanical bill.
The nose is similar to standard Zephyr with plenty of elderberry in evidence, but features a considerably higher level of piney juniper notes, giving it peppery overtones and a layer of earthiness. I wouldn’t call it London Dry per se, but it does ride closer to the line.
On the palate, the extra alcohol is immediately noticeable, as is the more aggressive evergreen quality. Elderberry takes a distinct back seat here as juniper, angelica, and coriander take a more prominent role at center stage. A bit gritty and dusky as it develops, the experience gets a little brooding as it lingers on the tongue. The finish has bite, but it’s not unwelcome. Ultimately, however, and this may sound heretical, I preferred the lighter and more inviting standard edition.
88 proof.
B+ / $39 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
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