Tasting Alsatian Wines, 2025 Releases
Alsace is an often reliable and affordable wine region, albeit one that often flies under the radar. Best known for its riesling and gewurztraminer offerings, the region is home to a surprising range of wines, including reds. Here’s a look at five recent releases from the area.
2022 Francois Baur Riesling Vin d’Alsace – Aromatic, but quite dry, with notes of dried mango, lemongrass, and a gentle honey character that tempers elements of white flowers, preserved lemon, and a hint of the riesling-classic petrol. The wine is fairly lean, which makes it light on its feet and allows the layers of fresh herbs to temper any threat of sweetness from rearing its head. The most gentle touch of greenery lingers on the conclusion. Lovely. A- / $25
NV Pierre Sparr Cremant D’Alsace Brut Rose – Classic Cremant, creamy and foamy on the tongue, with iconic notes of baked apples, strawberries-and-cream, and a touch of bitter rhubarb that adds a bit of an edge to the otherwise fruit-forward proceedings. Light vanilla notes emerge on the clean — but extremely fizzy — finish, which ultimately decides to land on a lightly candied strawberry note. B+ / $17
NV Camille Braun Cremant D’Alsace Brut – Fairly straightforward, this cream-laden wine is clean and gently fruited, touched with notes of guava, lemon curd, and, in the end, vanilla-laced pastry cream. Doughy and chewy thanks to a robust fizz that is a classic part of Cremant, the wine finds an end-game that retreats to traditional, melon-heavy notes, particularly honeydew. B / $27
2020 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer – Gently honeyed on the nose, with a bit of petrol and some light greenery elements. Classic floral aromatics are present, but blow off quickly. The palate is on the thin side, though it remains approachable and light on its feet throughout. A reprise of honey on the finish ensures some residual (and lightly cloying) sweetness, but as gewurztraminer expressions go, it is at least a decent pick. B / $28
2023 Hugel Pinot Noir – Alsatian red wine is a real rarity in the U.S., and this bottle shows off much in common with many German reds, low in alcohol with a focus on earthier, beefier notes dominant. The continuation of the palate is somewhat green and underripe, a lean encounter with a mix of menthol and sage, then a vague, undulating incense note. A bit tart and, again, savory on the finish, this is a wine that needs an appropriate pairing to shine its brightest. Schnitzel or fondue, perhaps? B / $20
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