At this point, we’re used to complicated back stories in the spirits world, but the tale of Kanosuke — a new whisky from Japan — is more complex than most, so hang with us.

The company began in 2017 with the goal of distilling and maturing whisky in Kagoshima, the southern coast of Japan. Master blender Yoshitsugu Komasa comes from a distilling family — but not a whisky one. Like a huge number of Japanese distillers, his family made shochu, and his approach to Kanosuko combines both shochu and whisky distillation practices.

The operation has two distilleries: the eponymous Kanosuke and another called Hioki. Kanosuke operates three pot stills, each with a unique neck and arm shape, and it focuses on low-pressure distillation and steamed barley techniques, similar to those used for shochu. These whiskies are at least in part aged in Mellowed Kozuru casks — the name the operation uses to describe its barrel-aged shochu.

Hioki is the company’s shochu distillery, and here the distillery is taking a new approach to distillation, using its shochu hardware — a stainless steel (not copper) pot still.

Three whiskies are currently available, one from each distillery and one that’s a blend of the two. We got all three to try out. Thoughts follow.

All are packaged in 700ml bottles.

Kanosuke Japanese Single Malt Whisky Review

Made using all three of the distillery’s stills and aged in those Mellowed Kozuru casks. Easily mistakeable for a single malt Scotch, this is a lovely and gentle introduction to the Kanosuke lineup. The nose is clean and fruity — ranging from lemon to lychee, and backed by a spray of mixed florals — evoking a complex mix that ranges from lilac to marigold. That’s all propped up by a modest savoriness, evoking sandalwood and a hint of mushroom.

The palate does not take any chances, continuing the theme with a mix of cereal and fruit, though here the lemon meanders into more of an orange peel note, followed by a healthy dose of green apple. There’s a solid baking spice component here that’s not readily visible on the nose, perked up with notes of nutmeg and some cardamom. The whisky quiets down quickly, though, with a short midpalate and a quick finish. Sesame, some soy, and a reprise of that toasty sandalwood all help(?) to temper any risk of lingering fruit notes.

Overall it’s wholly enjoyable, though it’s so mellow and approachable, you risk drinking far more than you intended to if you’re left with an open bottle.

96 proof.

A- / $100 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

Kanosuke Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whiskey Review

Single grain whisky (malted and unmalted barley) that is produced using shochu techniques in Hioki’s stainless steel shochu pot still and aged in ex-bourbon barrels and new American oak barrels. Irish pot still whiskey is the inspiration here, but I had visions of light whiskey from the start with this experience, which is fresh and clean on the nose, high-toned with notes of lemon oil, floral perfume, and some menthol.

It’s equally light on the tongue, though the fruitier notes seen on the nose fade into a more grain-heavy experience, though it’s still very clean and ephemeral — leaning again into those perfumed notes, which give it a heady, vaporous quality. The light whiskey effect is strongest on the finish, which is sharp and sugar cookie-sweet, showing off final notes of almond extract and lemon cookies.

102 proof.

B+ / $110 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

Kanosuke Double Distillery Japanese Blended Whisky

A blend of the two above whiskies; no proportions disclosed — and bottled at a higher proof than either.

The combination of the two styles works well — though I can’t say it’s elevated above or particularly distinguished from the single malt above. The nose amplifies both whiskies — the fresh, brisk malt and citrus of the single malt, alongside the perfume of the Hioki pot still — the latter is particularly prominent as time wears on, seeing rose petals melding with red apple skins as the aromatics build in the glass.

On the palate the fairly heavy floral notes on the nose are tamped down, again making way for a ton of fruit — baked apples and Asian pear, amply layered with baking spices. Notes of sesame cookies provide a dessert-like quality as the finish builds — cream cake, cinnamon toast, and more of that sugar cookie note all join hands to conclude. Again, this one’s very sweet on the back end, recalling vanilla cake frosting and, to a lesser degree, some of that almond quality from the Hioki expression.

106 proof.

B+ / $120 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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