Review: Wines of the Federalist, Spring 2025
A ribbon clutched by a bald eagle’s talon on the label proclaims The Federalist to be “America’s Craft Wine,” and far be it from me to attempt to refute such a claim. Its presence is rather ubiquitous – at least throughout my travels in the Midwest and East Coast. In the last year, I’ve spied bottles on the shelves of gas stations in St. Louis, my local supermarket in Kentucky, and menus of fine dining experiences in Atlanta and Boston. Not wishing to proactively mix my drink of choice with political or historical discussions (it never ends well) I try my best to avoid spirits affixed with even a whiff of patriotic allusion. The temptation to use it as a conversation starter is far too great, not always worth the return on investment, and always seems to impede the overall experience. However, it’s been half a score since we last sampled anything from this Lodi-based winery, and the moment feels right for a revisit.
2022 The Federalist Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi – Abundant aromas of blackberry and ripe plum offer up a somewhat predictable cabernet profile but the red currant preserves and fresh ground coffee notes offer up the promise of something different. Those notes carry on to the palate and are joined by hints of black tea, tobacco leaf, and lemon zest lingering about on the finish. There’s quite a bit of complexity to appease seasoned wine drinkers and newcomers alike. It is ready to drink now, but holding on to this for another year or two will find this in prime form. (Yes, we recommended cellaring The Federalist.) It’s an inspired and solid selection for a quick and easy weeknight dinner calling for a Cab paring, especially at this price point. A- / $17
2023 The Federalist Pinot Noir Central Coast – A light and minimal Pinot Noir, with tart cherry as the dominant note persistently retaining focus. Over time, hints of raspberry, baking spice, and leather emerge, adding some technicolor to an otherwise monochrome experience. Allowing it to rest briefly enhances its depth and balance and pairing it with something off the grill gives it a chance to show off its charms. B+ / $24
2023 The Federalist Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – This offering from America’s Craft Wine was made in Marlborough, New Zealand. This is more than acceptable, as things and folks from New Zealand are usually quite enjoyable, and this Sauvignon Blanc is no exception. A nice balance of tropical and vegetal notes, with layers of Meyer lemon, pineapple, and guava gradually receding to notes of green pepper, gooseberry and lemongrass. Dry but with good balance and decent acidity, this is one for chilling poolside during the dog days of summer. B+ / $20
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