Review: Three Wines of the Cotes du Rhone, 2025 Releases
The wines of the Cotes du Rhone are always enchanting but not often are they this affordable. Today we dive into a trio of CdR releases, all of which hover around the $20 mark — and all of which are worth your time.
2023 Gabriel Meffre “Saint-Mapalis” Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone Villages – From the Plan de Dieu plateau, rather a rarity to find in U.S.-distributed bottlings. There’s quite a density in this wine, thick with notes of anise and fresh raisins nestled into a thick core of cassis and tart, underripe cherries. Some lighter turned earth notes add a touch of gravity to the proceedings, with a pinch of pepper spicing up the back end. Gamy at times, with a slightly leathery edge, this is a natural companion for richer, meaty dishes, the funkier the better. An absolute steal at $20. A- / $20
2022 Chateau Saint-Nabor Cotes du Rhone – Another earthy, almost gravelly expression, showcasing turned earth and anise, with a raisiny character developing after just a few minutes in the glass. Increasingly chocolaty and touched with vanilla, the sweeter elements offset the light gaminess in the wine, which ensures its gentle beefiness is kept in check. Airtime is an excellent investment here, which helps temper any roughness and let the darker fruit notes shine more clearly. Still a pinch of pencil lead and blackberry bramble cling to the finish, though neither are unwelcome. A- / $20
2022 La Bastide Saint Dominique Cotes de Rhone Villages – Rather than earthy, this wine leans into a meatier/beefier quality, layered with notes of prune and well-dried raisin, almost passito in presentation. A layer of cherries and baking spice works its way into the forefront of the palate, culminating in a finish that is touched with dried flowers, particularly lavender. At the same time, the wine comes across as a bit underdeveloped, short of some structure needed to give all of the above some grounding. B+ / $22
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