Review: Wines of Merryvale, 2025 Releases
Merryvale has been a California winemaking icon since 1983 (with roots stretching back well before that), and today it remains one of the most reliable operators in state, producing a range of wines that run from premium to the absolute top-of-the-line. Today we’re excited to check out a trio of new releases from the operation, including one from its second, more affordable label, Starmont.
2022 Starmont Chardonnay California – A mix of fruit from Santa Barbara, Monterey, and Sonoma Counties. Initial notes of guava and melon are largely unsurprising but refreshing, with doughy coconut and almond notes playing second fiddle. A spritz of saline surprises and clings to the finish, alongside a squeeze of lemon peel. A crowd-pleaser to be sure. B+ / $26
2022 Merryvale Chardonnay Sonoma Coast – A curious combination of styles that evokes both California and Chablis. Meyer lemon up top, a spritz of vanilla extract, then a grassy quality that evokes rosemary and sage. Some white pepper on the back end, then a reprise of bright, effusive fruit: lemon, mandarin, and green apple, in roughly that order. Late finish notes of guava and gooseberry emerge as the wine warms up. There’s plenty of power on the creamy body, but its delicate flavors infiltrate remarkably well over the course of the evening. A / $42
2018 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – Surprisingly well-aged for a current release, and tucking into this wine shows why it’s been held back so long: It’s still quite restrained and tight, a dusty expression of anise and tar that is brightened up by a sprig of mint. The wine turns more from mint to menthol as it develops — and time in glass is instructive, finally allowing the fruit inherent in the wine to come into focus. Bold notes of black raspberry and currants are tamed by a whip of licorice that amplify the fruit and develop a clearer blackberry quality, infused with dark chocolate and a reprise of licorice. Aeration is so critical to this wine, that I can’t overstate it. If ever a case has been made for decanting a seven-year-old cabernet, this is it. A- / $74
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