Review: Wines of Odette and Adaptation, 2025 Releases
Odette is a top-shelf part of the PlumpJack wine empire, and Adaptation is, in turn, a spin-off of Odette. I would hesitate to call it a “second label,” as Adaptation (or “Adaptation by Odette”) is every bit as premium as Odette is.
These wines tend to sell out quickly, so you’re highly advised to pick them up on release, should you happen to encounter them in the wild — or on PlumpJack’s website, linked below. Thoughts on three new releases follow.
2022 Odette Reserve Chardonnay Napa Valley – Initially on the oaky, extracted side, this wine settles down with a little bit of warmth to show off its exceptional structure, a surprisingly delicate blend of lemon, baked apples, vanilla-scented shortbread, and a hint of cinnamon toast. There’s a slight pear element to the finish, with a racier spice note clinging, telegraphing cardamom. The more this wine warmed up in the glass, the more I loved it. A / $88
2021 Adaptation Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – A rather restrained expression of cabernet, particularly in its first hour in the glass. Time allows the fruit in this expression to eventually muscle its way to the fore, though notes of currants, plums, and black cherries are restrained throughout, with ample notes of tobacco and mint ensuring the fruit remains tamped down. Gentle tannins are welcome here, giving the wine some needed gravity. Anise and a light tobacco note give the finish a bit of extra grip. B+ / $80
2021 Adaptation Petite Sirah Napa Valley – An outstandingly dense wine up front, you can feel your teeth staining to maroon as you sip on it. A healthy amount of air time is your friend with this wine, allowing the tannins to mellow and any astringency to quickly evaporate. What’s left behind remains ever much the powerhouse, a gorgeously fruity experience dominated by blackberry and plum notes — sweetened to the point of turning a little pruny. I say almost because it’s not an overly sweet wine, with very heavy chocolate tones, a dusting of cinnamon, and some anise gripping the tongue. The finish is quite gritty and yet also quite enchanting, as cold-weather a wine as there ever was, enveloping both the palate and the heart as it warms the soul. Too sappy? Nah. A- / $64
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