Review: Town Branch American Single Malt Bottled in Bond 15 Years Old
January 19, 2025, marked the first occasion that distillers had the option to officially classify their whiskey as American single malt whiskey with the Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB). While official recognition of the standards of identity for American single malt whiskey is very new, numerous distillers have been self-imposing those same standards for many years. The Commonwealth of Kentucky is known for its bourbon whiskey, but it quietly also boasts one of the oldest American single malt whiskeys on the market. Lexington Distilling and Brewing is the only stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail where visitors can experience both a distillery and brewery. The formal name of Lexington Brewing and Distilling may be less familiar to consumers, as its whiskey is released under the Town Branch name. Today, the operation founded by Pearse Lyons is selling the most well-aged bottled in bond American single malt on the market today: Town Branch Bottled in Bond Kentucky Single Malt Whiskey Archive Series, Volume 1 has a whopping 15 years of maturation.
This single barrel behemoth single malt originated on July 2, 2009, and was dumped in late July 2024. Barrel #222 from Lot #09G02 yielded 118 bottles and carries a price tag of $399. The well-aged single malt is the result of double distillation on two copper pot stills handmade by Forsyths of Scotland. The wash still is 12,5oo gallons in volume while the spirit still is smaller at 850 gallons. The mashbill consists of 100% American brewers malt fermented for 3 days in cypress tanks with open tops. The bottled in bond was aged in Town Branch’s previously used bourbon barrels. Coopered by Kelvin Cooperage with a #4 barrel char, the casks initially matured Town Branch bourbon for over 4 years before being refilled with ale for a month to produce Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale. Shortly after the ale was dumped, the barrel was filled with single malt. Initially stored at the bonded warehouse at Lexington Brewing and Distilling, the barrel was later moved to the bonded warehouse of partner Castle and Key. Serving as the oldest bottled in bond American single malt, it came of age in the United States’ longest rickhouse.
Town Branch’s bottled in bond single malt brings a massive age statement, along with a massive price. Most would agree that Kentucky produces the best bourbon. Is it possible that Kentucky might also produce the best American single malt as well? Let’s open this bottle and bond with it.
After 15 years of waiting, the nose opens with a burst of dried apricots and crisp pears, offering loads of fruitiness. Grapefruit follows to add a nice citrus zing, while underlying cedarwood brings backbone. As the glass sits, a touch of cinnamon as a perfect amount of spice. Bold, yet impeccably balanced, the aromatic profile is both vibrant and refined, making for an exceptionally pleasing nosing experience. The nose sets the bar high with rich notes of black walnut and poached pear lead the palate, offering a mix of deep nuttiness and soft, stewed fruit. Cardamom adds an intriguing spice, while molasses bring a dark sweetness that lingers. A touch of mango adds some tropical vibrancy. However, the whiskey drinks noticeably hotter than 100 proof, overshadowing the flavors and making the heat the dominant experience. While the complexity is there, the intensity of the alcohol demands attention, pulling focus away from the full depth of the profile. As the experience moves toward the finish, dark chocolate and cinnamon appear, followed by a bright pop of grapefruit zest. As the flavors fade, an intense dryness takes hold, leaving the mouth noticeably parched and tightening. Incredibly long-lasting, the finish lingers well after each sip.
As the oldest bottled in bond American single malt and simply one of the most mature American single malts on the market, Town Branch deserves respect and admiration. However, I firmly feel it is not the best American single malt on the market. I’ve experienced numerous other American single malts that I enjoyed much more, including Town Branch’s own 7 year old expression. It’s fascinating to taste an American single malt boasting 15 years of age, but having recently compared the two, the brighter nature of this same distillate with half the maturation lands better for me — and it’s only $36.
If you are a collector looking to add rare bottles to your collection based on significance, this bottled in bond certainly holds historical significance. It can be argued the this bottle justifies a $399 price based on its status as the oldest bottled in bond single malt on the market, but not on the tasting experience.
100 proof. Reviewed: Barrel #222, Lot #09G02.
B+ / $399 / lexingtonbrewingco.com
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