Review: 2019 Ceretto Barolo DOCG

Ceretto has been producing wine in Piemonte’s Langhe region for more than 90 years, where it operates more than 400 acres of estate-grown vineyards and a three-Michelin star restaurant.

Its latest Barolo from the 2019 vintage is intensely earthy, hailing from a cool, cold year for Piedmont. The resulting restraint on this wine is evident throughout. Thick notes of turned earth and mushroom lead the way on an intensely tannic experience that finds notes of anise and graphite dominant from the start. Notes of blackberry emerge with some time in glass, but they’re kept in check thanks to a tough punch of black pepper and a lingering, lightly vinegary quality. So, so dry — the tannins here have yet to find any sense of restraint, leading to a tarry, overtly earthy conclusion. This may already be past its peak.

B / $70 / ceretto.com

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