Review: 2019 Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere Pessac-Leognan Blanc

There is a whole lot of complicated French in the name of this delightful white Bordeaux, which has been in the family of Alfred and Michele Bonnie for 28 years now. The blend of 76% sauvignon blanc and 24% semillon couldn’t be further removed from overly fruity, weedy, or astringent New World styles, alternately showcasing gentle aromas of lemon, gooseberry, wet grass, and unripe mango. The palate has a gentle bitterness that allows a significant minerality to develop, alongside a pinch of anise and cloves. A touch of white peach and some lilac brightens up the finish, which is clean and pretty thanks to the appearance of late-game lime and green apple notes. I’m no expert on optimal cellaring times for white wine, but this bottle has legs for a few more years — though if it were in my cellar (and it is), I’d drink it right now.

A / $95 / malartic-lagraviere.com

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