Review: Bozal Mezcal Tobasiche and Cempasuchil
Even if you’re not a mezcal drinker, you’ve probably seen Bozal’s iconic ceramic bottles, painted in understated earth tones, on the back bar more than once. Bozal, which means “wild” or “untamed,” produces a huge range of mezcals, ranging from a simple Ensamble to various single maguey and reserve bottlings.
Today we look at two of the more luxe expressions from Bozal, including one of those single maguey mezcals and a flowery Reserva. Thoughts follow.
Both are 94 proof. NOM-O472X.
Bozal Mezcal Tobasiche Single Maguey – 100% agave Karwinskii, of which Tobasiche is a subset, made from agave plants with 12 to 13 years of maturity. This is a surprisingly savory expression of mezcal, rich on the nose with aromas of mesquite, turned earth, and freshly picked rosemary. Layers of smoke waft from the glass — and the bottle, before it’s ever poured — with an enduring herbaceous quality lingering. The palate is far from the aggressive smoke bomb you might expect, including a bright citrus attack chased by ample salinity. The lacing of smoke is prominent but not aggressive, with a sweetness that builds considerably as the finish approaches. Quite warming on the back-end, with a reprise of sweet mesquite that evokes barbecue sauce to a moderate degree — and a final spritz of expressed orange peel. A delight for fans of more smoke-forward expressions. A- / $80
Bozal Mezcal Cempasúchil – A unique mezcal that is made from clay pot-fermented Espadin agave but also distilled with marigolds, a sacred symbol of Día de Los Muertos. It’s quite fruity and floral on the nose, with its smokiness distinctly downplayed. A sustained note of carnations and, I presume, marigolds wafts from the glass, tempered by a light mesquite character and an undercurrent of lemon-infused syrup. The palate’s sweetness is significant, again quite fruity with flavors of grilled lemon slices, grapefruit peel, and a bit of marzipan. The floral elements take on a zippier, spicier quality here, folding in various notes of red pepper, cardamom, anise, and black pepper. The finish has a heavy slick of that initial florality but also a charred element that evokes a more forceful smokiness than the nose suggests. A touch astringent on the conclusion, peppery bell pepper hits you with those sharp pyrazine notes, leaving a lasting impression. B+ / $129
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