Review: Cream of Kentucky Bourbon – Small Batch and Cask Strength 2024
Cream of Kentucky, not to be confused with King of Kentucky, is one of the many projects from Four Roses alumnus Jim Rutledge, produced in his increasingly misbranded “retirement.” While the brand was revived in 2018, we’ve surprisingly never covered any of the releases, which are produced roughly annually, until now.
As the name suggests, the whiskeys are Kentucky-based bourbons and ryes, and all are sourced, from unstated distilleries. The 2024 set is a matched pair of bourbons from a mash of 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% barley, and are presumably the same product bottled at two different proof points.
We got ’em both. And here’s how they come across.
Cream of Kentucky Small Batch Bourbon 2024 – The nose of the whiskey is extremely mild, showing off a modest heat against a backdrop of toasted peanuts, still in the shells, and little else. I didn’t really expect much given this almost lazy aromatic profile, but found quite a surprise in discovering an instant pop of Dutch process cocoa powder on the palate, layered with notes of cinnamon and ripe raspberries. Immediately crowd-pleasing, those peanut notes make an impact but keep themselves busy in the background, adding a gentle nuttiness to the proceedings that comes across on occasion like a well-crafted candy bar. The finish is relatively thin for a 50% abv offering, though the whiskey takes on a nut butter quality, adding in a light layer of coconut cream and a reprise of cinnamon… and more chocolate. It’s not the most complex whiskey I’ve tried, but I did find plenty to like about it. Perfect for mixing into tall drinks. 100 proof. B+ / $70
Cream of Kentucky Cask Strength Bourbon 2024 – Don’t get too excited by the cask strength moniker: This expression is just 3.2% higher in abv than the Small Batch, though it does present a bit of a departure from the Small Batch, and the added heat is noticeable. Right away, there’s an increase in red pepper evident on the nose, but the peanut shell core remains, with a clearer punch of barrel char underneath. On the palate, the chocolate note again hits quickly, chased by graham cracker and butterscotch elements, creating a palate and finish that are more akin to chocolate cream pie than a candy bar. Toasty coconut again emerges on the finish, with (surprisingly) more overt sweetness than the Small Batch — albeit with less in the way of fruit. There’s just a bit that’s more enticing here than in the Small Batch, pushing it up to a slightly higher grade… along with the price tag. 106.4 proof. A- / $95
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