Review: The Macklowe American Single Malt (Kentucky Gold) and Rye
Launched by hedge fund manager turned socialite turned booze magnate Julie Macklowe, The Macklowe whiskey brand was designed to introduce the world to what a luxury American Single Malt whiskey could be — at least as Ms. Macklowe envisions it. To achieve that end, Macklowe didn’t exactly scrimp: The operation sources its whiskey from various locales, then brings in renowned master blender Brendan McCarron (who distills Bunnahabhain, Ledaig, and more) to do the heavy lifting of putting together the finished product. The Macklowe is produced in small batches of 10 barrels at a time — which has resulted in a panoply of products that stretch up into the four-figure price band, depending on what’s in the evocatively designed decanter.
Now The Macklowe is finally expanding beyond American Single Malt and is moving into rye. We tasted both its gold label, Kentucky-distilled ASM and the new rye, both born from Kentucky juice in order to get our bearings. Note: A bourbon is coming up next.
Both are 92 proof.
The Macklowe American Single Malt – Kentucky Edition (Gold Edition) – Distilled in Kentucky, aged in new oak for 4 years. Peppery and woodsy on the nose thanks to that new oak aging, it’s tempered with notes of gingerbread and cinnamon along with plenty of fresh cut wood at the outset. Seems sedate, but surprise: There’s a big burst of flavor on the palate, with a surprising amount of fruit showcased. Apples and mango, with lots of vanilla backing them up. The barrel impact remains strong, but the whiskey doesn’t present itself as leaning too heavily on wood, especially after it has time to open up. Let it sit in the glass and notes of almond, cherry, and dark chocolate all build, making for an immersive, almost dessert-like experience. The notes of marzipan that cling to the finish make for one of the most delightfully sweet ASM whiskies I’ve tried to date. A- / $259
The Macklowe Kentucky Straight Rye – Four years old 95/5 rye not from MGP but from Kentucky, finished in Macklowe’s single malt whiskey barrels for 6 to 8 months. There’s surely some family DNA on display here shared with the single malt. In fact, the nose of the rye comes across more like a single grain Scotch than any domestic rye I’ve ever encountered. Aromas include well-sweetened cereal, something akin to cookie dough, and a bready, pastry-like character, all doused in rose water. The chewy palate immediately evokes bubblegum along with a substantial, herbal quality, finally showing its rye DNA, though these flavors make for incompatible roommates if ever I’ve seen them. The heavily sweetened cereal character remains persistent throughout, clinging to all that gummy sweetness on to the finish, though here a gritty denouement awaits, evoking throat-clutching herbs and notes of peppered bacon. Julie Macklowe said the world doesn’t need another cookie-cutter rye, and she’s right, but I’m not sure this was the solution. B- / $98
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