Review: Kilchoman Batch Strength

It’s been a minute since we last checked in our favorite Islay farm distillery, but Kilchoman fans should stay tuned this fall because we’ve got a lot of coverage coming, including an interview with founder Anthony Wills, arguably one of the most candid distillery owners in all of Scotland. First on deck, however, is Kilchoman’s new Batch Strength, which arrived in March and marks the first addition to the core range in eight long years.

Like the two other offerings in the permanent lineup, Machir Bay and Sanaig, this is a non age-stated vatting of single malt aged in a mix of casks. But while those offerings rely on differing proportions of single malt aged in ex-bourbon and sherry casks exclusively, Batch Strength goes a blending step further with the inclusion of single malt aged in re-charred red wine casks. The use of these casks, sometimes referred to as STR (for shave, toasted, and recharred), is a maturation technique pioneered by the late Dr. Jim Swann who was not coincidentally an early advisor to the distillery. According to Kilchoman, a small amount of water has been added to achieve a consistent alcohol strength for the expression, which tracks with what we’ve seen personally from most cask strength single cask bottlings that tend to hover around 57 to 58% abv. Let’s check it out.

The nose is big, but not overly bold, with those classic Islay hallmarks: sweet smoke and creosote, brine and lemon oil. While those notes will be familiar to fans of other peated brands, it’s the texture of Kilchoman that I often think sets its whiskies apart from others on the island. That’s is on full display here, with those notes beautifully plump and oily and woven together with lacings of vanilla cream and, as it opens more in the glass, a bit of cherry cordial. The palate is similarly round and plush with a batch strength slug of chimney soot at the outset that quickly turns to lemon cookies, orange peel, sea salt, and chewy caramels on the midpalate, all sprinkled with a healthy helping of warm baking spice. The finish darkens a bit with berry compote and dark chocolate before a lingering reprise of grilled citrus and sweet smoke. A welcome, if long overdue, addition to the Kichoman core lineup.

114 proof.

A- / $80

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