Review: Wines of Merry Edwards, Fall 2024 Releases
The hits keep coming from Merry Edwards, including this collection of chardonnay and pinot noir wines that are perfect for fall sips. These are all from the 2022 vintage, with several selections from Anderson Valley.
You know the drill. Let’s dig in.
2022 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Anderson Valley – A little thin, a little green. There’s more of a mineral overtone to this chardonnay than I was expecting, and the wine never quite develops to where it should be on the palate. While a bright green apple quality dominates, it comes across as comparatively unripe and just a little bitter, particularly as it warms up. Dry as a bone, I was searching for something to cut through the salinity, but never quite found it. It clearly needs the right meal to help balance out its stony face. B / $45
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – The rack bottling of Merry Edwards pinot noir is engaging and on point, though there’s not a lot of dramatic heft to it. That’s not a slight. Merry Edwards’ wines can sometimes be complex to the point of daunting, but this expression reads like a “greatest hits” of everything that makes Merry great. Chewy and vibrant with both cherry and raspberry notes, the wine slowly layers in spices to showcase notes of mint and clove in equal proportion, settling into a gentle, earthy groove as it finds its eventual landing spot. Touches of orange peel add some brightness to the finish, making this a little delight that works well in almost any situation. A- / $60
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Anderson Valley – A hearty take on pinot from Merry Edwards from vineyards outside the Russian River home base. Intense notes of Maraska cherry and raspberry dominate, touched with gentle brushings of rosemary and a lingering vanilla bean note. Dark chocolate syrup emerges as the wine develops, though there’s plenty of acidity to brighten up the body and intensify the focus on the cherry elements. Baking spices linger on a finish that sees both a pinch of brown sugar and a dash of balsamic. This would be an outstanding companion with a seared duck breast. A- / $55
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Dach Anderson Valley – A more nuanced take on the above wine from a single vineyard in Anderson Valley. Here those Maraska cherries meld with a more floral character, lacing the wine with perfumed jasmine, followed by mint and notes of soothing vanilla. Light on its feet and never heavy, the wine’s acidity remains a guidepost throughout the experience — and the touch of milk chocolate on the finish is a lovely addition. The balsamic edge on the standard Anderson Valley bottling is missing here, making for a more summery encounter and making for a solid standalone option. That said, it’s a beautiful wine to pair with lighter meals, too. Immensely quaffable. A / $75
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith Russian River Valley – A tougher, earthier expression of pinot noir, with some balsamic evident. Gently smoky at times, the wine leans on its tannins more than other expressions in this roundup. The end result is a fairly savory experience that features more beefy notes atop stewed cherries and a touch of prune. The 14.5% abv is noticeable on this one, which feels heady and a little vaporous. With the right pairing (think steak) this heartiness can work wonders, but the vibrance of pinot noir isn’t readily visible on its own. B+ / $70
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Russian River Valley – At first not dissimilar to the Coopersmith expression above, though lightened up considerably. The wines diverge with a bit of time to linger, with insistent elements of baking spice and toasted oak mingling against an underbelly of raspberry and cherry. The mint here is fresher and more fragrant, more floral, and time in glass helps the wine develop further, shaking off any more aggressive qualities and letting a finish of orange peel and cardamom linger. Thanks to its mere 13.7% abv, it showcases a cleaner and more refreshing conclusion, which is welcome. A- / $75
2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georgeanne Russian River Valley – A clear best-in-breed pinot for this round of wines, Georgeanne is rich and effusive, expressive up top in its lush focus on cherry and boysenberry notes. Perhaps the most fruit-forward wine in this collection, the bottle slowly makes room for an impressive florality, its flowery elements variously touched with expressed orange oil, milk chocolate, and a smattering of baking spices. All of this coalesces beautifully into a wine that ultimately evokes a certain Eastern point of view, lightly touched with notes of saffron, hibiscus, and the hookah den — weirdly psychedelic. Ephemeral and immersive, it’s the perfect conclusion to this extensive and varied exploration of the 2022 vintage. A / $70
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