Review: Paul John Classic Select Cask (2024) and Christmas Edition 2023
India’s Paul John has graced our pages several times in the past. With this post we look at a pair of releases — a fresh bottling of its iconic Classic Select Cask, and the most recent release of its seasonal Christmas Edition single malt. No standing on ceremony, let’s get going.
Paul John Classic Select Cask (2024) – Although Drew first reviewed this whisky four years ago, the box indicates this is still on Batch #1, so either we received a really old bottle or that’s a huge batch of whisky that Paul John put out back in the day. Either way, this doesn’t seem to have changed much, still a mystery (albeit unpeated) “masterpiece of selected casks,” bottled at or around cask strength. My thoughts fall largely in line with Drew’s: the nose is bready and fruity in equal proportions, very much evoking a youthful Saturday morning in front of the TV. Apples evolve as baked, with cinnamon raisin notes lingering. In time, a more savory earthiness, approximating mushroom, comes into focus. Great balance on the palate — lots of spice, golden syrup, and a firm edge of citrus keep things zippy. Cloves add a pop of color, then a soothing rush of honey informs the finish. Gentle but engaging, you’d be easily forgiven for assuming this was a top-shelf 12 year old Speyside single malt. 110.4 proof. Batch #01. A- / $90 [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS] [BUY IT NOW FROM THE WHISKY EXCHANGE]
Paul John Christmas Edition 2023 – We’re not late on this, the 2023 Christmas Edition of Paul John’s single malt took its sweet time getting to us. Christmas Edition is an evolving special edition whisky. While the 2021 edition we last saw is finished in a mix of Port and Madeira casks, this 2023 offering is finished in a Single Vintage Colheita Tawny Port Cask. (The whisky is initially matured in an ex-bourbon barrel.) No age statement. Port always feels like a holiday tipple, and there’s no getting around the Port in this expression, which feels equally designed for Christmas. The nose is immediately exuberant, showcasing an overwhelmingly nutty/raisiny quality that is so thick with candied fruit and spiced walnuts that it smells like holiday fruitcake — the good kind. Clearly quite sweet, it features an undercurrent of golden syrup and vanilla cake frosting — along with a golden sponge cake quality that at least nods at the underlying barley. Drinking with dessert (or as dessert) is definitely on tap. On the tongue, the calculus changes little. Fruit, spice, and nuts, in that order. Dig deeper and notes of milk chocolate and cinnamon toast, some prune, and a reprise of vanilla all take hold. I think I’m painting an accurate picture here: It’s a breathtakingly fruit-filled whisky that’s stuffed to the brim with flavor. If you’re not in the right mood, it might be too much. So, you know, save it for Christmas like the instructions say. 92 proof. Reviewed: Batch #01. A / $70
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