Review: 2021 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Lithology is a rather under-the-radar luxury cabernet brand, but I’m making the argument that it shouldn’t be. This remote Howell Mountain operation is managed by three winemakers — Philippe Melka, Maayan Koschitzky, and Matt Sands, plus consulting winemaker Michel Rolland. Their idea? Work their winemaking voodoo each year by selecting the right fruit from the best vineyards in Napa to craft the perfect wine once each year.

Lithology 2021 is a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, and 2% cabernet franc, sourced primarily from the eastern edge of Rutherford, with some Howell Mountain merlot and Oakville cab franc added to the mix.

Lithe and limber, this is a seductive little cabernet, lush with raspberry and blueberry notes, and lightly sweetened with notes of orange flower water and vanilla. Gentle, well-integrated tannins add a bit of an edge to what might otherwise come across as exceptionally fruit-forward, the finish leaning more toward rhubarb, dark chocolate, and crushed pistachios. Incredibly light on its feet for a Napa bottling that’s only 3 years out from harvest, this is cabernet at its most exuberant and refreshing, layering fruit and florals until you’ve somehow lost the plot. It’s not a wine that you’re going to brood over by the fire, and it’s not one that needs more time in the cellar — nor would it likely benefit from it. There’s certainly a place and an argument for wines that are ready to go today, so you therefore have my permission: Tuck right in.

A- / $150 / lithology.wine

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