Review: Davis Bynum 2002 Chardonnay River West Vineyard and 2021 Pinot Noir

Davis Bynum has been a real workhorse brand in the California wine world, dating back to 1973, when the eponymous winemaker crafted his first pinot noir. Bynum the man died in 2017, but the brand lives on in the hands of proprietor Tom Klein and winemaker Greg Morthole, still cranking out pinot and chardonnay from its home in Somona’s Russian River Valley.

Today we check out two of the operation’s more recent releases, representing both iconic styles.

2022 Davis Bynum Chardonnay Russian River Valley River West Vineyard – Pretty, fresh notes of gooseberry and coconut cream top a layer of lemon curd beneath, with hints of lime leaf ringing the edges of the wine. Gently touched with vanilla, this is far from an overwhelming barrel bomb, finishing with a guava-heavy tropical quality. Refreshing and versatile, and quite summery. Outstanding value. B+ / $30

2021 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – While a bit flat up top, some airtime helps this wine’s inherent charms to reveal themselves more fully. Notes of cherry, strawberry, and a light touch of vanilla cream create a certain holiday vibe to the wine, with a pinch or two of herbal greenery notes revealed late in the game. Light anise and chocolate on the finish, with well-integrated but sharpish tannins. Worth spending some time with to let it evolve and show its charms more fully. A- / $45

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