Review: Fierce & Kind Bourbon – Single Barrel and Cask Strength
Fierce & Kind is a new whiskey operation working out of San Diego. But unlike many producers these days, it has a specific mission: to make whiskey that is “deliberately crafted to be approachable and drinkable for both whiskey beginners and connoisseurs.”
These are young whiskeys — nothing I tasted is older than 2 1/2 years of age — but you wouldn’t know it from just about anything in the drinking experience. Made from a mash of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley, they’re contract distilled in North Carolina and unusually aged in toasted, char #2 American oak barrels. The distillery donates 25% of its profits to a charity of its own design, which focuses on entrepreneurship in disadvantaged communities.
Today we look at two F&K whiskeys — a single barrel bourbon and a single barrel cask strength expression. Both carry age statements on the reverse and are being updated in real-time as the months pile on, so check your specific bottle to see more about what you’re getting. Specific barrel numbers however are not provided.
Fierce & Kind Single Barrel Bourbon – Two years old. Fruity and rather sweet on the nose, aromas of applesauce, maple syrup, and vanilla mingle into a swirl of aromas that, while not quite candylike, certainly feels like it belongs on the dessert cart. Cinnamon and milk chocolate notes increase in power with time in glass, though extended airtime allows a peppery, herbal note to finally emerge — an indication of the rye in the mash. Similar notes hit the palate, here emerging as a fairly nutty experience. Ample notes of baked apples dominate, laced with cinnamon and nutmeg. Vanilla endures, again just short of coming across like candy, though the experience is indeed very sweet. Quite chewy as the finish approaches, the late game again leans on cinnamon and a sugary Corn Pops quality, showing more maple on the fade-out. I used “again” a lot in this review because the experience tends to repeat itself throughout. That’s not necessarily a criticism, but it does show how straightforward the whiskey is — and, just as promised, how it feels built for “approachability.” That said, this would be a $20 whiskey from a mainstream producer. 86 proof. B / $55
Fierce & Kind Single Barrel Bourbon Cask Strength – Two and 6 months old. Same stuff, but a bit older and 55% abv. No surprises here, but the higher abv makes itself known in a good way: The cinnamon smells hotter, the apples smell riper, and some barrel char becomes more evident. A touch peppery, the aroma hints at cloves, but only barely. There’s still plenty of vanilla and syrupy maple in the mix, leading to a palate that chases the same elements. Baked apple, vanilla frosting on chocolate cake, and a late-breaking cola character are all heavy in the mix — again with a light touch of red pepper to close things out. It’s definitely warmer than the standard expression, but wholly approachable without water, in large part due to the aggressive sweetness throughout. If ever there was a “starter” cask strength whiskey, this is it. 110 proof. B / $85
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