Review: 6 Selections from Portland Syrups
Portland Syrups is an Oregon-based producer of more than 20 sweetening mixers, ranging from simple syrup to pumpkin spice. We recently delved into a half-dozen of these offerings — tasting all with sparkling water to cut through the sweetness.
Each is sold in a 12 ounce bottle, which provides 12 to 24 servings. Bottles are shelf stable for 24 months. After opening, they will keep refrigerated for 6 months.
Thoughts follow.
Portland Syrups Grapefruit Tonic – Grapefruit Pureé, Organic Cane Sugar, Lemon Pureé, Elderflower, Grapefruit Peel, Citric Acid, Quinine Flavor. Plenty of bitterness up front gives this syrup an appropriate edge of quality tonic water, with the fruit playing a secondary role. The mind expects to find lime here, but the more bitter and bracing grapefruit provides even more peppery pungency, with a rhubarb-adjacent finish. It’s straightforward but surprisingly versatile: You can pair this with gin of course, or try mixing with Campari or another amaro — or a non-alcoholic version of one — to take this in a wholly different direction. A
Portland Syrups Passion Fruit-Citrus – Organic Cane Sugar, Passionfruit Puree, Key Lime Puree, Blood Orange Puree, Citric Acid. This one’s subtle, so you may want to pump up the syrup level if you really want the fruit to shine. The three fruit elements are all accounted for here, though the blood orange and lime character battle for second place, the former taking on a brighter mandarin note than the more typically brooding blood orange. You can’t escape the gentle florals and tropical sweetness of the passion fruit, however, and the resulting combination is something that wanders close to mango, with overt sweetness kept in check. I’m not sure this is a go-to syrup outside of the tiki space, but I bet my kids would love it. A-
Portland Syrups Mojito – Seasonal: Key Lime Puree, Organic Cane Sugar, Organic Spearmint, Organic Peppermint, Citric Acid. Less impactful than you might expect, with a lot less mint than I was expecting. The Key limes pop, but they’re also held in check, pairing with the spearmint to create a summery vibe that doesn’t quite make it to Cuba but rather takes you poolside to your nearest country club. The finish has a lighter citrus vibe, almost lemony. You might need to up the dosage on this one to make your mojito sing, but with enough syrup, the right rum, and an easy hand with the soda, it can do the trick. B+
Portland Syrups Yuzu – Organic Cane Sugar, Pure Squeezed Yuzu Juice, Organic Yuzu Concentrate, Citric Acid. Citrusy, somewhere between Meyer lemon and grapefruit, but with a bit of an herbal kick. If you’d told me there was a little rosemary in this, I would have believed you. A slight vanilla note on the finish gives the syrup something of a Creamsicle experience, which keeps it from becoming overly acidic. Instead it’s actually a bit creamy and rounded. Use as an alternative to simple syrup in cocktails that feature lemon, triple sec, or both. B+
Portland Syrups Grenadine – Organic Cane Sugar, Brown Sugar, Pomegranate Puree, Rose Petals and Buds, Organic Pomegranate Concentrate, Citric Acid. This grenadine is made in collaboration with YouTuber Anders Erickson. Somewhere in shade between brown and maroon, this is a husky, earthy example of grenadine, with overtones of prune and crushed pomegranate seeds. The rose notes are evident on the nose and provide a lightly perfumed quality, but this doesn’t come through on the palate. Instead, it’s lightly chocolatey on the back end, with overtones of vanilla and root beer. A little of this grenadine goes a long way, and the ruddy color may not do quite what you’re expecting if you’re looking to add a certain festive hue to your cocktail. B
Portland Syrups Lavender Syrup – Organic Cane Sugar, Organic Whole Culinary (French) Lavender, Organic Lavender Flower Extract (Organic Cane Alcohol, Organic Flavors), Butterfly Pea Flower Powder, Citric Acid. I didn’t expect to love this product, and I didn’t, but the thing of it is, I disliked it less than I expected. The lovely shade of blue of the syrup distracts from the soaplike flavors that lavender always generates, but only to a degree. The lovely, floral-dusted sweetness is at first appealing, lightly spiced with a cinnamon-like tone, but this quickly breaks down, and the finish tastes like a visit to the Crabtree & Evelyn Christmas party. There must be folks who love this unmistakable flavor because I keep seeing it in cocktails, so for all of you flowerheads out there, I say knock yourself out. B-
each $14 per 12 oz bottle [BUY THEM NOW FROM AMAZON]
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