Review: Tamdhu 18 Years Old

We continue our march across the ever-growing Tamdhu lineup with Tamdhu 18 Years Old, yet another milestone for this once-shuttered Speyside distillery. Dormant from 2010 to 2013, Tamdhu is now humming under current owners Ian Macleod Distillers who have expanded production since taking over in 2011. The 10-year-old, drawn initially from old Edrington stocks and retired in 2018, was a respectable starter flagship bottling, but the more recent 12- and 15-year-old expressions have impressed even more, revealing what this 100% sherry-matured single malt is capable of. How does the 18-year-old stack up? Let’s find out.

The aroma is warm and sultry, wrapped in a rich, sherry hug that’s equal parts nutty and darkly sweet, having traded fruitier notes over its considerable years in favor of more oiled leather, soft baking spice, and, as things open up, chocolate raisins and cocoa powder. In his review, Chris remarked that the 15-year-old drank older than its age-statement, and here too there’s quite a bit of maturity on display with malt and nougatine notes decidedly outnumbered by the nuances of a longer sleep in high quality sherry casks (presumably from the same suppliers as The Macallan).

On the palate, there’s still quite a bit of energy in this spirit with bright notes of candied ginger, lemon cookies, and oxidized wine still vibrant, showcasing dark fruits and citrus while almost proving effervescent in its presentation. The midpalate delivers coffee beans and airy chocolate cake before a peppery crescendo of five spice kicks off a long, warming finish of clove-studded orange peel and dark ginger snaps. I’d take this 18-year-old over The Macallan’s any day and spend my savings on a bottle of Tamdhu 15 to go with it.

93.6 proof.

A- / $240

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