Review: World Whiskey Society Japanese Single Malt

We know World Whiskey Society best for its various bourbons, but today the brand is bringing us something unique: A single malt made from 100% Australian malt, distilled in Japan, and finished in bourbon and ruby Port barrels — all in collaboration with Texas whiskey legend Chip Tate, founder of Balcones Distilling. The formal name, as near as I can tell, is World Whiskey Society Japanese Single Malt Finished in Bourbon and Port Ruby Casks. Naturally this is a limited release

If that sounds weird, you don’t know the half of it. Allow me to explain.

The nose evokes none of the above expected elements, instead coming across with a distinct aroma of fino sherry — astringent, green, nutty, and mushroomy. Time in glass evokes barrel char and a smoky quality, with well-toasted cereal grains eventually dominating. Again, the palate finds that youthful sherry note — wildly different than oloroso or PX — carrying the day. And again, ample time in glass helps the whiskey find a more even footing, with notes of Asian pear, sesame oil, and an elusive baking spice character, heavy on cloves. There’s a sweetness here, a vague molasses note paired with apple butter. It doesn’t linger, though: Black pepper follows, chased by a powerful punch of umami-laden soy sauce and heavy notes of roasted mushrooms. Ultimately I found it to be one of the most savory whiskey experiences I’ve ever encountered — for better or for worse. Have a shot with your next omakase experience and I think you’ll be delighted. Everyone else: Mind-scrambled.

102 proof. 200 cases produced.

B / $120 / worldwhiskey.com

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