Review: Wines of Hall, 2024 Releases
There’s a lot going on at Hall, which also operates Walt (pinot noir) and Baca (zinfandel) brands — and six tasting rooms in California — under the leadership of winemaker Kathryn Hall. Fun fact time: Hall was formerly the United States Ambassador to Austria, from 1997 to 2001, when she returned to winemaking — and has been cranking out top shelf bottles ever since.
With Hall’s latest flagship cabernet just hitting the market, we got the opportunity to look at three vintages of the Kathryn Hall cabernet sauvignon, alongside a teaser of Hall’s Sauvignon Blanc.
Thoughts follow.
2023 Hall Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley – Lightly tropical with mango notes, ample vanilla quickly becomes evident, making for a sauvignon blanc at its most chardonnay-like. Light green apple notes (baked and folded into brown sugar) meld with creamy vanilla custard and some key lime to evoke a very summery experience. While short on sauvignon blanc’s typical acidity, it’s long on fruit flavor, punctuating the hearty apple character with notes of pastry dough. There’s a surprisingly robust and enduring vanilla overtone here, which is a surprise as it’s aged entirely in stainless steel. I found it a delight, though my wife thought the tropical notes were too heavy. A- / $32
2016 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – At 8 years old, this wine is starting to show some age, as the fruit is becoming a little dull around the edges, short on vibrancy. There’s still a core of dark fruit here, but it’s less distinct than it ought to be and is sometimes tough to place, coming off as a little doughy, with milk chocolate and some hazelnut notes in the mix. Slightly green as it develops on the palate, though not quite rolling into bell pepper. Almond paste and a pinch of anise hit on the finish. B+ / $300
2019 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – With a punch of graphite and anise, this 2019 release finds Hall’s cabernet in its more brooding teenage years — smoldering and earthy, still tinged around the edges with herbs both fresh and dried and layered with generous notes of very dark chocolate. A hint of mint emerges late in the game, alongside toasted nuts and some well-charred, grilled fruit. Brighter currant and cherry notes lie in wait underneath, but expect a half hour or so of air time before they full emerge from the glass. This one still needs several years in cellar to mature, but I expect that patience will be rewarding. A- / $300
2021 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – Up front the wine is youthful and tight, but still lively with fruit and showing ample promise. In lieu of aggressive leathery notes, the wine offers ample anise and dark chocolate elements, but filtered through raspberry and blackberry notes. Imagine a slightly unripe raspberry covered with the darkest chocolate on the block and you’re on the right track. The finish keeps things moving as it lumbers on toward a more brooding finish, showcasing elements of tanned leather and graphite — with a reprise of anise lingering on the fade-out. It’s a beautiful start to a wine that will definitely benefit from some cellar time to fully find its footing. A- / $225
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