Review: Penelope Bourbon Architect Build 10, Barrel Strength Batch #18, and Toasted Batch #24-301
Penelope Bourbon has settled into a groove that revolves around one-off (for now) releases like Valencia combined with regular updates to a series of limited editions. Today we look at three of the latter — new versions of Architect, Barrel Strength, and Toasted Barrel — though it’s our first taste of the lattermost. While Penelope frustratingly uses different numbering systems for all three of these bourbons, we will try our hardest not to hold that against them and, instead, just dive into the whiskey itself. Thoughts follow.
Penelope Bourbon Architect Build 10 – The 10th iteration of Architect: A wood-centric bourbon, 4 years old, from a mash of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. Finished for six weeks over French oak staves from Tonnellerie Radoux in France, selected using “their state-of-the-art OakScan process” which is a technology that can determine the tannic potential of wood. It always sounds like hokum when I read it, but while Build 1 didn’t do much for me, I gotta say they may be on to something at this point. The nose is boldly spicy and quite sweet, showcasing vanilla, cherry fruit, and plenty of cinnamon, though there’s plenty of lightly tannic barrel char here too. The palate is amazingly buttery, layered with vanilla and caramel to create a creamy quality that is rarely seen in today’s world of endlessly burlier-than-thou whiskeys. Marzipan and cookie dough notes only add to the immersive, dessert-like experience, while a butterscotch quality builds on the finish, followed by a maraschino reprise. It seems like there’s nothing in the candy aisle that doesn’t make an appearance here except for chocolate, which has somehow eluded this whiskey. Warming at 52% abv without being overly hot, the whiskey is brisk yet soothing, with a gentle, creamy conclusion. 104 proof. A / $65 [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]
Penelope Bourbon Barrel Strength Batch #18 – We’ve covered this expression dating back to the OG Batch #1 in 2019. Now we’re up to Batch #18, and it’s safe to say we’re running over some familiar ground here. Hot and well-toasted with lots of char, the more burly wood-focused elements slowly give way to rye-driven spice and an almond element, but there’s never much in the way of sweetness here aside from a thick layer of peanut butter that rushes forward on the finish. At least a hint of fruit would be a nice break from the one-two punch of woody barrel essence and roasted peanuts, but it never comes to be, unfortunately. Pretty green on the back end — and slightly minty — with aggressive, lingering char. 114 proof. B / $65 [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS] [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Penelope Toasted Bourbon Batch #24-301 – After initial maturation in charred new American oak, Penelope Toasted is finished in a new, toasted barrel. “Toasted” anything has always felt like a gimmicky letdown to me, but this rendition doesn’t disappoint. The baking spice is strong with this one: Bold notes of nutmeg and cinnamon are immediate on the nose, rumbling alongside a lightly peppery barrel char quality. The palate is sweeter than you expect, with a lush marzipan character tempering any heat and the more aggressive black pepper notes. The toasted wood — a lighter play on more traditional barrel char — is evident on the finish, where a combination of vanilla and baking spice create a horchata-like quality, tempered by clean, lingering flavors of polished and lightly oiled wood. It’s late in the game when a brisk, cherry-like influence takes hold, giving the conclusion a slightly tart, mouth-puckering quality that had me smacking my lips and returning to the glass again and again. A big surprise that’s just shy of an A rating. 100 proof. A- / $70
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