Review: Clonakilty Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey

Exciting things are happening at Clonakilty in County Cork, Ireland, and I recently had a chance to learn about them when I sat down again with Padraic Coll, co-founder of the Clonakilty Distillery, as well as Master Distiller Oisin Mulcahy. Meeting at the Hugh O’Neill’s Pub in Malden, Massachusetts, they informed me that Clonakilty has just started bottling the first batch of its own distilled and aged whiskey. Previously, Clonakilty aged and blended whiskey sourced from other distilleries, but this year they released their own Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey made entirely with barley grown on the Scully family farm on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean in County Cork.

This new Single Pot Still whiskey is a bit young, consisting of 60% four-year-old whiskey aged exclusively in ex-bourbon casks blended with 40% five-year-old whiskey aged in ex-bourbon casks and then finished in Amontillado or Oloroso sherry casks. The quality of the whiskey was improved early in the process by giving the barley an extended fermentation time which they say makes for a better distillate. Mulcahy talked to me about the exciting experimentation with various casks taking place at the distillery as well as plans to eventually make an older version of this Single Pot Still whiskey the mainstay of Clonakilty. He also pulled out a bottle of Batch 1 and poured me a sample. Let’s see how it’s going.

Pouring light gold in color, the whiskey presents gentle aromas of vanilla, salted caramel, red apple, and lemon pith. Tasted, the whiskey proves much bolder and more complex on the palate, hitting first with vanilla, then showing off caramel, lemon, and apple. Midpalate, the whiskey introduces black pepper, orange peel, and a fresh briny note of the ocean. The finish is surprisingly long as the black pepper, orange peel, and saline notes slowly dissipate. The whiskey has the enjoyable, creamy mouthfeel and spiciness that I look for in Pot Still Irish whiskeys.

As much as I liked the whiskey, I found that the various notes could have come together more harmoniously. I expect this will improve as the distillery’s stock ages and they can release an older product. But with Batch 1, Clonakilty has created an excellent first draft. Great value compared to other single pot still Irish whiskeys, too.

92 proof.

B+ / $50 / clonakiltydistillery.ie

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