Review: The Perfect Fifth Canongate American Whiskey 14 Years Old

The Perfect Fifth is a relatively new independent bottler on the scene, working with both American and Scotch whiskies. With Canongate, it’s doing double duty, taking a whiskey distilled by Heaven Hill in Bardstown in 2009, aged in the U.S. for three years, then shipped off to Scotland for another 11 years of aging. There’s no information on the original mashbill of what went into those barrels, but the choices are fairly limited. Regardless, it’s the significant aging in chilly Scotland instead of hot-as-balls Kentucky that’s the real story here.

Let’s give it a try.

Canongate 14 challenges expectations of old Kentucky whiskey, offering a softness on the nose that’s seldom seen in traditional bourbon and rye releases. In lieu of barrel char and spice, the nose offers elements of honey and creamy peanut butter, then immersive florals that evoke aromas of rose petals and a duskier potpourri character. It’s very exotic and understated — and nothing like anything else I can think of that came out of Kentucky.

The palate takes all of the above and runs with it. The floral notes are even more dominant and perfumed here, with overtones of chocolate and honeycomb. Layers of wet greenery and fresh herbs fill in the gaps, along with a surprising punch of cayenne. The whiskey is more than a little hot and racy at full proof; I had to significantly water it down to temper its impact. The finish reprises peanut butter and, again, more dried flowers.

The end result? A bit cacophonous from time to time — as any “fish out of water” will tell you — but unique, charming, and worth a sample should you come across the product… a single barrel of which was produced.

128.8 proof. 232 bottles available in the United States.

B+ / $175 / theperfectfifth.com

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