Review: Vale do Bomfim 2022 White and 2020 Red

Bomfim is part of Portugal’s Dow group — known for its Port wines — which in turn is part of the sprawling Symington family. Unlike its better-known brands, Vale do Bomfim focuses exclusively on table wines — and affordable ones at that. Here’s a look at the latest blends from the operation, one white and one red, all made using native Portuguese grapes.

2022 Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro White DOC – 30% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato, 20% Gouveio, and 20% Arinto. Clean, fresh, and loaded with minerals, this pretty blend balances a bright and lemony salinity with notes of honeydew melon and quince. While clean and refreshing, it avoids any overt fruitiness thanks to ample acidity — with just a drop of rice vinegar that keeps things bright. Light almond notes give the finish a bolder, more immersive body. Outstanding value. A- / $15

2020 Dow Vale do Bomfim Douro Red DOC – 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca, and 10% Tinta Barroca. Hearty and quite raisiny, this wine clearly hails from the land of Port. It’s fortunately far less candylike than our experience with the wine last time around, its almost pruny core touched with notes of chocolate, anise, and some rhubarb. A little blunt on the finish, but far more approachable and enjoyable this time around. B / $15

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