Review: Wines of Compris, 2021 Vintage
Oregon’s Compris is a new operation that produces a wide range of wines that include the standard-bearers of the Willamette Valley… plus some surprises, too. Today we look at a five-pack of wines all from the 2021 vintage, all of which are in current release and which are all fairly reasonable in price.
2021 Compris Wavelength Chardonnay Chehalam Mountains AVA – A juicy, moderately oaked estate chardonnay, built around notes of lemon, gooseberry, and a pinch of autumnal baking spice. The moderately bold body shows plenty of oomph without overdoing things, the wine’s vanilla notes present but understated. Clean and lightly acidic on the finish, hinting at lime. A- / $45
2021 Compris As One Pinot Noir Chehalam Mountains AVA – Bright but balanced, this pinot noir melds tart cherries and raspberries with smoldering notes of cola and tea leaf quickly into focus, making for an almost iconic expression of the grape. A bit chewy and grippy on the finish, the wine balances out its immersive body with a bright layer of acidity that makes it feel incredibly ephemeral and light on its feet, almost sunny to be honest. Before I knew it, the bottle was gone, and yet I was hoping for more. That’s perhaps the highest praise I can offer. I’d buy this on sight anytime, anywhere. A / $55
2021 Compris Mountain Echo Chehalam Mountains AVA – A more brooding, intense expression of pinot noir, made from estate fruit. Cherries and a touch of currant veer into notes of plum and a mix of spices up top. But again, that hefty body keeps this weighted down in a way that you don’t get with As One: Some fennel, marjoram, and a touch of barbecued beef inform a lightly balsamic finish. Dusky and layered, it’s a wine that works best with an appropriate meal. A- / $45
2021 Compris Moonlit Sky Tempranillo Chehalam Mountains AVA – Not at all what I was expecting, this Oregon tempranillo (say that out loud a few times) is perhaps the softest expression of the grape I’ve encountered, lightly dusted with touches of baking spice instead of the more typical racy, peppery overtones, as it focuses on fruit-filled notes of raspberry and strawberry jam, chocolate brownie batter, and a vanilla-laced finish. Immersive and unusual, yet just a bit on the sweet side, which slightly dulls an otherwise delightful experience. A- / $50
2021 Compris Moonlight Journey Syrah Chehalam Mountains AVA – A pungent powerhouse of a wine which offers many of the expected elements of the syrah grape — stewed prunes, roast beef, cloves, and pepper — but pours it through a slightly brighter filter which percolates notes of strawberry and milk chocolate. In the end, it’s a significant surprise, though the moderate balsamic quality on the finish can be a little daunting. The only miss for me in this collection, though its got some impressive brethren to stand next to. B / $50
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