Review: Appleton Estate Rum Hearts Collection 1998

With its Hearts Collection, Appleton has really come into its own as one of the premiere producers of rum globally. This collection is a series of very limited releases, offering ultra-aged, single-vintage rums from the years 1994, 1995, 1999, 1984, 2003, 1993, 2002, and now 1998.

We’ve reviewed only the last two of these, and now we turn to the 1998 bottling, which is made from 100% pot still molasses rum distilled in the previous millennium, aged 25 years on Appleton’s estate in ex-bourbon casks. Master Blender Dr. Joy Spence has been with Appleton for over 40 years — so she was around when this (and all the Hearts Collection releases) first came off the still.

Over Zoom from Jamaica, she walked a select group of media through a tasting of the new expression, noting that it is a particularly special release:

Master Blender Joy Spence says, “The 1998 release is very special, not only for its incredible depth and age, but also because it pays homage to one of the most cherished releases of my career.” She adds, “Hearts Collection 1998 closely replicates one of the rare marques used in the Appleton Estate Joy Anniversary Blend. Its striking vanilla notes and silky finish make this an ideal rum for sipping and savoring.”

Note that prices for the Hearts Collection have now exploded; this release is really getting up there.

With that said, let’s get to tasting.

Bold and ester-laden on the nose, this is an intense exploration of overripe fruits, sharp citrus peel, holiday-spiced vanilla syrup, and lots of unctuous molasses. Coffee aromas are clearly evident, alongside a gentle note of barrel char and some matchstick smoke. The palate is intense at full proof but not unapproachable. A mouthful of molasses and espresso greets the drinker, with a huge licorice kick coming on strong from there. Smoldering and warming, it takes a bit of time for fruitier notes to emerge, but they eventually do, featuring a mix of blackberries, gingered apples, and chocolate-covered cherries. On the finish: A reprise of oak, molasses, and anise, in that order.

Water is recommended by Dr. Spence, but be careful: Too much will dull all of this rum’s many facets. Bring an eyedropper and use it sparingly.

126 proof.

A / $650 / appletonestate.com

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