Review: Rolling Fork The Wheated Wonder Rum
Rum has a long tradition with historically colonial islands. While many rum-producing islands are now independent of their colonizers, the original mother countries in Europe are still involved in the rum production process. Most of the rums on the market are distilled in tropical climates, but they’re not necessarily aged in tropical climates for the longevity of their maturation. While numerous rums may be aged in the country of distillation, it’s common for barrels to be moved to Europe for maturation. When contemplating a rum, it’s important to note if the rum was aged in tropical or continental climate conditions. Aging for 10 years in Barbados will produce a different rum vs. one aged for 10 years in the United Kingdom. Furthermore, a 10-year-old age statement could also mean that the rum matured in multiple locations with different climates.
Rolling Fork is an American producer of rum that recently released The Wheated Wonder. Their newest small batch offering is distilled by Foursquare in Barbados and has been aged for a total of 10 years. It’s a blend of molasses-based rums distilled on both pot and column stills. It spent the first 8 years of life aging in the tropical conditions of Barbados before being transported to Starlight Distillery in southern Indiana for more than two years of additional maturation. Upon arrival at Starlight, Rolling Fork transferred the blended rum into finishing casks that previously held 10 year old wheated bourbon from Buffalo Trace, hence the name: The Wheated Wonder, which checks-in at 114.9 proof with a $99 price tag. In accordance with Barbadian law, there are no additives.
Rolling Fork brings us to the crossroads of Barbados, Kentucky, and Indiana. Is the rum as good as it is interesting? Let’s find out!
The scent of burnt orange peel immediately jumps out of the glass. Rich, buttered toffee quickly follows. After the initial burst of orange and toffee, there exists a rather distinct and unmistakable aroma in the form of a Sharpie marker. I can’t recall ever noting the aroma of a Sharpie in a spirit, but I oddly like it. I suppose the Sharpie aroma is indeed enticing, as every elementary school child is warned against sniffing markers. After getting the mind away from the presence of permanent ink, plump raisins round out the unique and memorable nose.
The palate opens with notes of roasted almond and marshmallow cream, quickly transitioning to a familiar, juicy plum. The midpalate moves away from sweetness as mild tobacco and bright orange zest arrive. It’s constantly evolving and engaging, with a medium viscosity mouthfeel.
The finish continues the trend of evolution. The orange zest and marshmallow cream here present as orange creamsicle. The finish wraps up with a sweet milk chocolate and salted caramel note.
This is a really fun rum with a lot going on. Between the highly unique nose and the evolving palate, it’s worth your attention. I do wish the finish was a bit longer, but it still works given the overall quality. The price is fair and something that warrants being in your liquor cabinet.
114.9 proof.
A- / $99 / rollingforkrum.com
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