Review: Rhum J.M Fumee Volcanique, Epices Creoles, and Jardin Fruite

Martinique’s Rhum J.M started exploring new styles with the release of its Terroir Volcanique expression in 2023. It’s now returning to that concept with a new series of rums called the Atelier Range (aka “L’Atelier des Rhums”), a trio of products designed by Master Blender Karine Lassalle “to identify three characteristics inherently present and specific to the terroir of Rhum J.M, and cleverly highlight them through cask manipulation.” Thanks to an on-site cooperage, the Atelier Range combines different barrel sizes, wood types, and char levels to create three different rums out of relatively young stock. (None are over 3 years old.)

“Creating the Atelier range was an interesting challenge, one which allowed me to use our agricultural rhums as a canvas and develop new flavors and aromas through experimentation with various toast levels and treatments of oak,” says Karine. “I have been blessed to have the inspiration of the volcano, the rainforest, wild chocolate and spices from our estate, banana fields, tropical flowers, and sugarcane fields that have helped me create these characteristics from our local terroir.”

We received samples of all three rums. Production and tasting notes follow.

Rhum J.M Fumée Volcanique (Volcanic Smoke) – Rhum agricole aged 12 to 14 months in bourbon barrels that undergo an “extreme” char treatment. Extremely fruity on the nose, this has the immediate impact of a classic agricole, overwhelming with notes of overripe pineapple and charred lemon, tempered by a strong vein of cut grass and a touch of licorice. This hasn’t had enough time in barrel to become as smoky as the distillery might want, given the name, but there’s a taste of char that emerges on the palate, melding with the toasty caramel, almond, and coconut elements on the tongue. A tough of racy tajin adds some bite on the finish. The overall effect is a little haphazard, as the heavy fruit character weighs down everything else. Definitely something the tiki crowd can mix with, though. 98 proof. B

Rhum J.M Épices Créoles (Creole Spice) – Rhum agricole aged a minimum of 3 years in French and American Oak barrels of various capacities and char levels. Much clearer barrel influence here, with a nose of chocolate, toasted wood, and coffee bean. Warm honey notes and a smoky tobacco character emerge with time in glass, the rum taking on an increasingly nutty, almost almond butter-like quality. Both buttery and spicy on the palate, this is a much richer and more elegant rum, eschewing overt fruitiness for a soulful after-dinner experience. Coffee with lots of cream, more creamy almond butter, vanilla custard, and a layer of baking spices are all accounted for on the tongue. Lightly warming on the finish, a reprise of almond, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, awaits the drinker. The one to get if you’re choosing just one rum from this collection. 92 proof. A-

Rhum J.M Jardin Fruité (Fruit Garden) – Rhum agricole aged for 24 months in French and American Oak barrels of varying char types. Not dissimilar to Epices Creoles, but clearly quieter and more restrained. An even stronger nuttiness perseveres here, with aromas of toasted coconut, bay leaf, and a slight incense note rounding out the palate. Coconut dominates on the tongue, alongside a mild baked apple quality — perhaps not the fruit garden intended to be evoked, but orchard-adjacent at least. It’s surprisingly minty as the finish builds, with chocolate and some marzipan giving the conclusion a distinctly dessert-like character. Again: Similar to Epices Creoles here, but with a slightly different, more herbal spin to it. Much milder thanks to the considerably lower abv — a good thing and a bad. 84 proof. B+

each $40 (700ml) / rhumjmusa.com

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