Review: Tenango Rum

Guatemala is home to a number of top-shelf rums, including Zacapa, Botran, and more. The latest arrival is a new brand called Tenango Rum, launched by restauranteur Sophia Deleon, who has deep Guatemalan heritage.

Made completely in the country, this rum is column-distilled from molasses and aged in American oak for an unspecified length of time. The distinctive, removeable woven bottle cover is handcrafted, and each one is unique.

On the nose, the rum is toasty with wood but is moderated by notes of ruddy, red fruit and smoldering dark molasses. Tropical fruit notes build with a little time in glass, but it’s not overly evocative of tiki, perhaps owing to a surprising amount of heat (considering its 40% abv) that tempers the sweeter aromatics.

The palate opens things up and dives deeper into the core components of the rum. Still quite woody, the initial taste evokes sandalwood and leather plus a touch of turned earth. Fruit is present but kept in check: a mix of blood orange, coconut, and guava… and dare I say a hint of pickled beets? With airtime, the rum shows off a beefier element, hinting at barnyard. The finish recalls some old bourbons I’ve had in recent years, a combination of polished wood and pit barbecue melding with vanilla and caramel sauce — only here, filtered through a pineapple field.

This is a complex, flavorful, and immersive product — clearly a little rustic but with any rough edges made up for thanks to its impressive amount of charm.

80 proof.

B+ / $50 / tenangorum.com

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