Review: Proseccos of Valdo, Summer 2024 Releases
Enjoying a bit of history has never hurt anyone and the number of folks who would be well served by taking up the pursuit with zeal is rarely in short supply. According to Valdo’s website:
One of the first references to Prosecco in literature can be found in Pliny the Elder’s Naturalis Historia, a naturalistic treatise dating back to 77 AD. Pliny praised its goodness, saying that the Pucino wine, much loved by Livia, the wife of Emperor Augustus, was known for its healing properties which, legend has it, were the reason behind the longevity of the Roman woman.
While the inclination to expound on this is great, I am fighting the urge to pull quotes from my well-worn copy of Loeb’s translation of Natural History, and instead plead with you to read Lauren Mowery’s excellent article on Pliny published in Wine Enthusiast way back in 2023. You will be quite entertained.
Valdobbiadene isn’t the largest region producing Prosecco, but it is recognized for its high quality thanks to a comparatively cooler climate. Bolla-family-owned Valdo has been in production for nearly a century and it seems as if there are no signs of slowing down, especially as Prosecco’s popularity only keeps trending upward. For now, at least. And with that, here’s a look at a quartet of recent offerings from the producer.
NV Valdo Numero 10 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG – There’s a classic, clean profile here that is straightforward, but by no means monotonous: notes of green apple and pear up front, with a touch of tangerine peeking through. On the palate, there is a base of apple that dominates at first, but is eventually tempered by dried apricot and toasted almond. All around, an elegant bottle that hits all the right notes at the right time. A- / $30
NV Valdo Numero 10 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Metodo Classico – Like its Superiore sibling above, lovely notes of green apple and apricot on the nose at first, but a touch of minerality arrive to provide some distinction and nuance. The carbonation is milder, as well, giving it a more approachable character. Medium-bodied with good acidity on a palate of lime zest and green apple, leading to a medium-length finish that sees apricot make a brief return. An ideal partner with a dish of pad thai at reasonable levels of heat, or with sliced almonds as an aperitif. A- / $30
NV Valdo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut – Dry but with delicate bubbles with a palate of white flowers and lemon zest, and some minerality eventually cutting through. The palate is equally as gentle, with notes of melon and red apple framed by mild acidity. Not complex by any stretch, but its easygoing nature makes it a partner at brunch as a standalone: no Aperol, peach purée, or orange juice necessary. B+ / $20
NV Valdo Marca Oro Brut Prosecco DOC NV – Earthy but restrained, with notes of cinnamon apple, baking spice, and light lemon zest providing some sweetness. The lemon follows on the palate, accompanied by white blossoms and wet stones that are bracing. The finish has a slightly bitter undertone to it, with the minerality dominating as the fruit and floral notes fade. Certainly one to consider if the occasion calls for something more unique and savory than other Proseccos. B / $15
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