Book Review: How to Taste

Sometimes we eat and drink. Sometimes we taste. Many of us like to read the thoughts of those who taste and relay their experiences. Prior to purchasing a new spirit, it’s common to read the impressions given to us by others. Perhaps you run to Google to find a written review? Perhaps watching video reviews on social media is more your style? Do you pay attention to the plethora of tasting competitions? The world of tasting and writing quality reviews with ornate language can often feel a bit mystical. Advanced Cicerone and Certified Taster Many Naglich attempts to demystify the world of tasting with her 2023 release How to Taste: A Guide to Discovering Flavor and Savoring Life. Naglich takes readers through the realm of biology and psychology related to tasting, but does so in a manner that is entertaining, relatable, and far from snobbish.

Taste can be both subjective and objective. How does that work? Taste is a result of verifiable compounds that exist in what we eat and drink. Certain compounds produce certain aromas and tastes. As Naglich points out, the compound that creates a black licorice flavor is either present or it’s not. If that compound is not present, neither is the potential for a black licorice note. However, even with the presence of specific compounds that contribute to specific notes, we don’t all perceive or make sense of these existing compounds in the same manner. Naglich provides fascinating scientific data that explains the differences among the population regarding sensitivity to certain tastes and aromas. Given the same concentration of a compound, there can be great variance in our personal threshold for detection as compared to another person. In short, the same compound can be present for two people, but both people don’t necessarily have the same internal computer hardware to physically experience in an identical manner.

Let’s say that two tasters are physiologically equal. Does that mean they’ll experience the same flavor compounds in the same manner? Naglich points out that our personal experiences help us make sense of the compounds we encounter. The example cited by Naglich that stood out to me the most is nutmeg. When you think of nutmeg, what comes to mind?  For me, I associate nutmeg with sweets, such as pumpkin pie. The author points out that in other parts of the world, nutmeg is commonly featured with meaty and savory dishes. When encountering a nutmeg compound, my personal experience would lead me to describe what I’m tasting very differently than someone who associates nutmeg with savory. Furthermore, it can be hard to describe a flavor compound that we simply don’t know. Bourbon media icon Fred Minnick often waxes poetic about his perception of marzipan notes in whiskey. I’ll never taste marzipan in a whiskey because I’ve not yet introduced marzipan to my palate. However, I do often pick up nougat in whiskey. Nougat is often made from almonds, just like marzipan. It’s possible that I’m picking up on the same note as Minnick, but the way we perceive and describe them are not the same.

Early in the book, the author provides a fascinating discussion of how our environment shapes our perception of taste and smell. Science tells us that we can enjoy the exact same beverage or food in different environments and we’ll experience them differently. The color of the walls can change how sweet something tastes. The type of music playing in the background can change your cravings. The aroma of a specific flower can create the urge to take your time and spend more money. The sensory input coming from our environment changes what we taste, smell, and think. As consumers, this discussion is relevant as we think about the ideal surroundings for our optimal experience. However, this chapter is perhaps more interesting to those who operate bars and restaurants. Naglich provides insight into so many factors regarding the impact that the environment has on our tasting experience that is no doubt valuable for those attempting to make sure customers enjoy their tasting experience and keep spending money. While manipulation sounds a bit harsh, bar and restaurant owners can certainly create a certain environment that subconsciously points consumers in the intended direction regarding purchasing and tasting experiences.

After establishing the biological and psychological factors that contribute to taste, Naglich introduces some tips and methodology on how to go about tasting. What’s the best way to smell or nose a whiskey? If you’re new to whiskey, you might pull a Leeroy Jenkins and immediately plunge your nose deep into the glass. You’re certainly free to do that, but you’re not going to get the best experience. Naglich details several nosing techniques that you can combine to get the best experience possible. For the best experience in tasting, nosing is important as Naglich points out that roughly 80% of what we think we taste actually comes from smell.

After discussing smell, the author gives tips for the best ways to actually go about tasting. Do we start with a big gulp? For spirits, Naglich suggests starting with a tiny sip to prime your palate before considering what you actually taste with the following sips. Adding to the tasting techniques, the author discusses mouthfeel and what it means. Have you ever stopped to think about how a liquid feels in your mouth? How to Taste provides some language with description that can be helpful in capturing what you feel. The crux of the tasting discussion revolves around specific activities that will sharpen your tasting skills. Rather than going into a tasting with no structure, the author gives specifics on approaches that will help you tune your skills.

In the pursuit of greatness or perhaps just for a marketing advantage, there exists a plethora of tasting competitions within the beverage alcohol industry. With so many competitions out there, it can be overwhelming. What does it mean for a whiskey to win double gold versus double platinum? How are these competitions structured? Why did one whiskey win double platinum in one competition and bronze in another competition two weeks later? How reliable are the judges?  How credible is the opinion of the judges? Naglich provides a fascinating amount of insight regarding all of these questions and more regarding tasting competitions.

Mixology can truly be an art. Anyone can throw random ingredients together, but how does it turn out? How to Taste provides an excellent discussion regarding complementary and contrasting flavors that will be of great interest regarding cocktails. Naglich dishes the details on the relationship between the senses. If a mixologist wants to accentuate a specific quality in a custom creation, what ingredients should be used or avoided? How does a mixologist counterbalance a particularly potent ingredient? You’ll get that insight. Namaste.

Whether you are currently deep into the world of tasting versus drinking or you’re just thinking about wading into the kiddie pool, Mandy Naglich’s book is one you want. Her writing is factual and entertaining. She boasts an impressive list of tasting credentials, but her writing never comes across as arrogant or pretentious. How to Taste is Naglich’s effort to demystify and energy the tasting community. Naglich frequently offers tasting classes to tasters at all different points in their journey. She understands how to meet people where they are with tasting and help them grow. Grab her book.

A+ / $16 [BUY IT NOW FROM AMAZON]

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