Review: Lapo’s Aperitivo and Negroni (Non-Alcoholic)
Non-alcoholic amari are on the rise, and Lapo’s — a brand inspired by Italy but based in Dallas — is the latest to enter the fray. Lapo’s focuses on non-alcoholic options built around designing a boozeless version of the classic Campari and its iconic Negroni cocktail. The brand offers both a straight version of its Aperitivo — bottled in 750ml bottles — as well as single-serving canned Negroni cocktails. We tried them both, courtesy of The Zero Proof, a retailer which focuses on NA wines and spirits.
Lapo’s Aperitivo – True to promises, this is a non-alcoholic rendition of Campari, at least in color. The flavor of cinnamon and a touch of cloves are prominent, both showcased against a backdrop of rhubarb notes. The overall impact on the palate however is very mild, with a much more manageable bitterness than authentic Campari provides. Still, that’s not a bad thing, as it makes for some enjoyable straight sipping, without the need for a mixer. Lightly sweet on the finish, notes of brown sugar and a hint of sweetened cocoa powder make this a perfectly appropriate digestivo. A- / $32
Lapo’s Negroni – Take Lapo’s Aperitivo and mix it with sparkling water and you’ve got this single-serve NA Negroni facsimile. The ingredient list between the Aperitivo and the Negroni are nearly identical — and the main difference appears to be the lighter, fizzy nature of the canned expression. Now yes, Negronis are not traditionally sparkling, but they’re not traditionally non-alcoholic, either, so let’s consider this a new type of creation. A spin on a bitter Italian soda might be a better analogy, or something akin to a red gin and tonic (again, sans the booze). The effervescence is light, which lets the Aperitivo’s stronger notes of cinnamon and hibiscus come quickly to the fore. A more forceful bitter rhubarb note grows in strength, followed by a light salinity and some orange peel notes. A hint of strawberry and sweet currants gives the finish some lip-smacking sweetness, all part of what ended up being a nice little trip. That said, I didn’t really feel compelled to finish a full 8 oz. can. B+ / $20 per 4-pack of 8 oz cans
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