Review: Copperworks Single Malt Releases 049, 050, and Cask 22-2
Bourbon and rye whiskey have had defined standards of identity for decades. However, as of this moment, the Federal government has not yet officially established standards of identity for American single malt whiskey. After years of debate, the Federal Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB) formally introduced a proposal to make the American single malt category official in 2022. While the Federal government has not yet officially ratified the 2022 proposal, voluntary member trade organizations such as the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission (ASMWC) have offered up standards that have been in play for quite some time. The efforts of the ASMWC have been highly influential in guiding the TTB. The American Single Malt Whiskey Commission as founded in 2016 with Copperworks Distilling in Seattle as a founding member.
To be a successful small distillery, it’s essential to make whiskey of such a quality that consumers will want to purchase more than just the first bottle. It’s also quite helpful for a small distillery to be associated with some form of tourism. Copperworks is well-situated directly across the street from Pier 57 in Seattle. While some may visit Copperworks as their intentional destination, others may be dining and riding the Ferris wheel and notice Copperworks across the street.
Forsyths stills are commonly associated with single malt Scotch, but Copperworks distills their single malt on a well-polished Forsyths pot still as well. Rather than mashing in-house, Copperworks partners with five regional breweries to produce their beer. Prior to distillation, Copperworks lauters their beer (separating wort from grain) to produce a crisp and clean beer that is of beverage quality. In 2021, Copperworks earned the designation of Craft Malt Certified. To maintain this designation, a distiller must ensure that at least 10% of its annual malt purchases is craft malt. For the past several years, Copperworks has more than exceeded the minimum threshold with over 80% of its malt represented by craft malt.
Here’s a look at three new releases from the operation.
Copperworks American Single Malt Release 049 – Release 049 is distilled from pale malted Fritz barley originating in the Skagit Valley in the northwest corner of Washington. Fritz is formally known as NZ-151 and thrives in coastal growing areas. This particular malting is a moment in time as Skagit Valley Malting filed for bankruptcy in June 2023. Aged for at least three years in new oak barrels.
The nose initially brings a potent but not overwhelming scent of natural lemon zest. The aroma quickly transitions to oak influence, as expected by aging in new charred oak. The oak is not unbalanced, but it stands out compared to other lighter American single malts matured in used cooperage. The aroma of oak fades to a pleasing field of lavender. Following the floral lavender, the charred oak resurfaces with a hint of black pepper. Hanging on at the end, almond makes its debut in the form of an Italian almond cookie.
The palate opens with a fresh wildflower honey. The almond cookie on the nose presents as a Nilla Wafer to the tongue. The almond aspect is absent, but the biscuit nature is still present with more vanilla. Matching the lavender on the nose, the palate also displays a floral note. As the palate evolves, a pleasing black tea note makes itself known. Black tea can often bring a bitterness, but Release 049 is not bitter. The finish is far from short and the notes linger.
The floral notes with Release 049 are consistent in the nose, palate, and finish. The new charred oak maturation shows up big in the finish with a burst of caramel and black cherry. As the finish progresses, cinnamon is present. The finish on Release 049 is something that will be more familiar to bourbon drinkers. To match the midpalate, the lingering note on the finish also has a pleasing black tea.
Release 049 is a delightful American single malt. The American single malt whiskey landscape is fascinating as small distillers now have whiskey with more age and a variety of casks. With an age of at least three years, Copperworks has created a single malt that will appeal to both bourbon drinkers and lovers of single malt. Copperworks does not yet own the history to match age statements with notable Scotch single malts, but the use of new charred oak creates a formidable single malt coming from the Pacific Northwest. 100 proof. A- / $70
Copperworks American Single Malt Release 050 – Release 050 is distilled from Vienna malted Fritz barley from the Skagit Valley. This offering is also aged for at least three years in new charred American oak casks.
Release 050 opens with a nose of sweet molasses. The sticky nature of the nose moves to the biscuit note of Nilla Wafer more quickly. The caramels from the charred cask lead to an exceptional buttered toffee aroma, and the tannins from the new charred oak create a subtle sweet tobacco scent. As the nose tails off, there emerges a slightly floral note.
The palate opens with a bright orange zest. The fruit continues as cooked cinnamon apples follow. Matching the nose, bready Nilla Wafer notes are still present. To balance the fruit, there is a distinct note of Almond Joy candy bar. The coconut and milk chocolate do not present as separate notes, but as a combined profile. As the palate moves toward the finish, a nice black pepper bite appears. The mouthfeel comes with a moderate level of oiliness.
The maturation in a new charred oak cask shows up big in the finish of Release 050. The finish initially presents with familiar bourbon notes, such as brown sugar, pumpkin pie spice, and sweet tobacco, then trails off with a pleasant twinge of black tea. The finish hangs around much longer than an average whiskey.
Release 050 is versatile whiskey as it appeals to bourbon drinkers as a neat pour, yet the prominent orange zest makes it an excellent candidate for an elevated Old Fashioned. 100 proof. A- / $70
Copperworks American Single Malt Cask No. 22-2 – This particular cask is the made with Copperworks’ Five Malt mash: a blend of pale malt and four caramelized malts. Unlike the above whiskeys, Cask No. 22-2 was matured for 91 months in used casks that previously held Copperworks single malt.
The nose is immediately fruity with a big blast of sweet orange zest and vanilla. The initial impression of the nose is that of an orange Creamsicle. The fruity nose transitions to a more floral lavender, balanced with sweet tobacco. As the nose has time to open, a subtle note of almond appears. While the initial orange Creamsicle note pops, it blends in well to create an overall balanced nosing experience.
The prominent blast of orange on the nose matches the opening of the palate. However, rather than orange Creamsicle, the palate is all orange zest and vanilla pudding. Accompanying the vanilla pudding is a twinge of bready vanilla in the form of Nilla Wafer. The palate continues to expand in a fruity manner as a juicy red apple makes itself known. To balance out the fruity and sweet, clove is present. The overall palate is well-balanced with a highly viscous mouthfeel.
The finish is every bit as pleasing as the nose and palate. Familiar baking spices in the form of clove and cinnamon linger. In continuity with the nose and palate, orange zest is still very present. As the finish tails off, a subtle note of almond hangs around as the finish takes its time.
Copperworks consistently makes excellent American single malt across the spectrum. However, Single Cask No. 22-2 is a different beast. This particular cask is exceptionally good and surely one of the finest American single malts currently available. While every single cask of whiskey is going to be different from another, Single Cask No. 22-2 stands above most other single cask expressions of American single malt that originate from any point in America. 120 proof. A / $90
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