Review: Old Line Spirits Single Malt Navy Strength
Baltimore-based Old Line Spirits produces both rye and American single malt, but it’s really their malt that takes center stage. A new addition is Old Line Navy Strength, a 114 proof riff on their core expression that “salutes the traditional strength cherished by both American and British navies.” Never mind that they drank rum.
It’s worth nothing Old Line has also released cask strength offerings, often clocking somewhere north of 120 proof. Their Navy Strength expression is bottled at a consistent 114, regardless of the dump proof on the barrels in the batch.
The whiskey is non-age stated, though their flagship American single malt is generally four to six years old. That core expression is bottled at 95 proof, and they also sell a bottled-in-bond version (at the legally designated 100 proof, of course).
The nose is heavy on hot cereal, a multi-grain porridge topped with brown sugar and walnuts. The early notes are bolstered by cinnamon candy and spicy gingersnaps fresh from the oven. It’s fruity in the realm of prunes. Based on the early spice, I was half hoping for (and never quite got) a burst of tart red fruit to provide some welcome balance. Though it’s a single malt, to this point Old Line Navy Strength noses similar to some young bourbons aged in smaller, heavily charred barrels. Upon further research, the brand highlights their use of “heavy char” barrels… so perhaps we’re on to something.
First on the tongue is oaky, grain-forward spice: cinnamon and oats, mostly. It’s less fruity and nutty than the nose, though there’s an undercurrent of heavily spiced baked apples that makes a brief appearance toward the back of the palate. Secondary notes are heavy into candied ginger territory. (This would likely, as the manufacturer suggests, hold up very well in a cocktail.) This certainly benefits from additional time in the glass, along with a few drops of water; each brings forward more apple while tempering the ginger enough to let other flavors rise to the surface.
The finish is warming, long, and elegantly oaky, with spice dissipating gradually from ginger and hot cinnamon into sweet wood sugars.
Old Line’s Navy Strength single malt lives up to its bold branding, and it seems well suited to a rock or a cocktail. If you’re sipping neat, bring along a water dropper — and a bit of patience.
114 proof.
B+ / $55 / oldlinespirits.com
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