Review: Starward Lagavulin-Finished Single Malt Australian Whisky

Of all the whisky team-ups I could imagine, Scotland’s Lagavulin and Australia’s Starward was nowhere near the top of my list (despite Diageo having a not insignificant interest in the latter). Sure, the two countries have some cultural history. There’s a better than zero chance that a couple centuries ago an illicit distiller from Islay ended up in an Australian penal colony. But that’s probably not the brand story Starward is going for here. About that story:

The Starward team had the unique opportunity to visit the Lagavulin Distillery on Islay, experiencing firsthand the impact of the island’s landscape and climate on their whisky’s character. Starward Production Director, Sam Slaney, observed the influence of climate on maturation, noting how aging in two very opposing environments impart distinct flavor finishes, and somehow work together in perfect harmony.

Starward Founder, David Vitale, says “My earliest inspiration for Starward was to create a deliciously distinctive whisky, and while we certainly hit that brief with our red wine barrel matured whisky, what whisky better epitomizes distinctively delicious than Lagavulin? Sourcing these barrels to create this exciting expression gives us a magical moment to celebrate the very best of Australian curiosity and Scottish tradition. I’ve always been inspired by Islay; so much so that we named our daughters Islay.”

A collision of Urban Melbourne and the Islay Coast, Starward’s innovative aging process begins with its trademark red wine barrels, where the spirit absorbs the juicy notes of red fruit and vanilla for 3 years. It is then transferred into the Lagavulin peated Scotch whisky barrels for 18 months, creating a delightfully rich Australian Single Malt whisky. The marriage of these barrels is a beautiful showcase of the effect of maturation in crafting exceptional whisky.

Let’s check it out.

That Starward distillery character is resilient on the nose, cutting through Lagavulin’s meaty smoke notes to retain that same malty, honey-kissed grain character we observed in the flagship Nova expression. The smoke isn’t completely ignored, however, with undertones of salted meats, mesquite, and campfire embers. As with Nova, there’s not a lot of fruit initially on the palate, despite the red wine cask maturation. Hints of currants and dehydrated strawberry are subtle, overshadowed by a creamy, nougatine note and the Lagavulin finishing, which has imparted thick layers of briny smoke and creosote to the spirit. The midpalate sees a bit more fruit – grilled peaches and lemon oil – before transitioning to a warm, gently peppered finish of barley sugar, salty smoke, and grilled pineapple. Fun stuff and certainly worth exploring, especially if you’re an Islay peat fan.

96 proof.

B+ / $130 / starward.com

The post Review: Starward Lagavulin-Finished Single Malt Australian Whisky appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.